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Shortoff Mountain
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White Russians Gone Bananas T,S 
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Lost and Found 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 3 pitches, 290'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ken Pitts, Karl Lail 1994
Page Views: 1,091
Submitted By: Nick Stayner on Sep 19, 2007

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Description 

Interesting route with an adventurous feel. The first pitch is something of a change from the typical Shortoff "steep pulls".
p1: Climb a waterstreak with three bolts and some gear to a stance near or in the large chimney to your left. 5.9, 100'
p2: Shull and Lambert's book says to "move right" to a "steep, bucket-infested wall". We did this, but maybe we didn't move far enough right. And while the wall was certainly bucket-infested, it was also lichen-infested. Good gear and climbing nonetheless. Belay when the terrain becomes ledgy enough to provide a comfortable stance. 5.9, 140'
p3: Continue up to the top over easy terrain. 5.6, 50'


Location 

Continue walking left past White Russians. You will pass a steep, intimidating wall with some interesting aid lines/hard free routes. Lost and Found is just around the corner from these, located just right of a large chimney/corner.


Protection 

Standard Shortoff rack with emphasis on small-medium cams.



Comments on Lost and Found Add Comment
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By Jim Lawyer
Administrator
Apr 28, 2011

Pitch two is an exercise in climbing lichen-encrusted jugs. Still fun, though.

By TomCaldwell
From: Clemson, S.C.
Oct 10, 2011

Felt like both pitches were softer than the 5.9 rating. P2 was very easy slab with buckets. I was hoping it would be steeper. P2 I didn't find as much lichen as others, but I stayed slightly right on the part of the face that looked the cleanest. Maybe this made P2 easier, but there was a few very easy roof pulls.