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Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 210', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: 
Season: Summer
Page Views: 1,657
Submitted By: David Trippett on Dec 1, 2007

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Willie Benegas following his brother Damian up Los...

Description 

This is a variation to the normal Los Museos/Lost Fingers route.

This link-up may be done as one long pitch using a 70m rope. Start up Los Museos and head left up the steep, unprotectable slab to the overhanging crack of Abrojos e Centellas with 2-3 fixed pins. Ascend the pumpy crux bulge directly. Easier climbing leads to a belay in an alcove. Belay here or continue on through the final steep dihedral crack of Lost Fingers for a sensational mega-pitch. An ultra classic and stiff for the grade.


Location 

West face, Aguja Frey.


Protection 

Double Gear to #2 Camalot and alpine draws. Can be done in one pitch with a 70m rope, but watch out for drag. The slab section on the lower part below the crux is not protectable, but the climbing is moderate until the bolt below the crux.



Photos of Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Josh Beckner following the second pitch of Lost Fingers December 2007
Josh Beckner following the second pitch of Lost Fi...
Jared Spaulding leading pitch two of Lost Fingers December 2007
Jared Spaulding leading pitch two of Lost Fingers ...
Comments on Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers Add Comment
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By J Med
Jan 5, 2012

Great route- 1st section on Los Museos has a bolt above the fixed pin (new?)- 10b 1st crux- belayer should take care if the leader blows it at the crux- potential groundfall if sloppy rope-handling...
the wild dihedral of Lost Fingers is spectacular, but only about 10c at most- straight-forward thin-hand jamming, and wild stemming to exit (good pro).
edit: ah, my bad Dave. I didn't realize you could straighten-out the link-up with that part of A&C- I will try it next time!

By David Trippett
From: Squamish, BC
Jan 5, 2012

This is a variation that breaks out left partway up the first pitch, through an easy but run-out slab and heads through the overhang. Takes a direct line to the base of the Lost Fingers corner.