|Penitente - Inner Canyon
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This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.
Eight draws and a rope.
|By Tony Cappa|
May 18, 2002
This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary....
|By Joe Collins|
Jun 10, 2002
It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago.
|By Chris Hanson|
Jul 3, 2002
I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at firstname.lastname@example.org. thanks.
|By J. Darnell|
May 26, 2003
Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route.
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a
Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks.
Aug 24, 2008
Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend.
Jan 27, 2009
A bolt after the traverse was halfway exposed in November. Probably needs replacing.
Mar 29, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a
One of the few big hold endurance routes in the canyon. This is definitely a must do Penitente route!