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Penitente - Inner Canyon
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Unsorted Routes:

Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 

YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: McLaughlin and Schuler, 1987
Page Views: 7,374
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Nov 26, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (74)
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At the crux.

Description 

This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.

Protection 

Eight draws and a rope.


Photos of Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way Slideshow Add Photo
The rising traverse of Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
The rising traverse of Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
The canyon felt electric that day.
The canyon felt electric that day.
Going for the dish.
BETA PHOTO: Going for the dish.
Continuing the traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Continuing the traverse.
At the top.
At the top.
Starting the traverse.
BETA PHOTO: Starting the traverse.
Seconding this great, gymnastic route.
Seconding this great, gymnastic route.
Walking the traverse.
Walking the traverse.
Kevin traversing Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
Kevin traversing Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
A climber working the traverse on "Weenie Way...
A climber working the traverse on "Weenie Way...
Matt working on the route.
Matt working on the route.
Thought this was a good shot. I don't know who the...
Thought this was a good shot. I don't know who the...
Johnny cruxin'.
Johnny cruxin'.
Jay and the Virgin Painting.
Jay and the Virgin Painting.
The Good Doctor traversing the rail.
The Good Doctor traversing the rail.
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Comments on Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way Add Comment
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By Tony Cappa
May 18, 2002

This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary....
By Joe Collins
Jun 10, 2002

It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago.
By Chris Hanson
Jul 3, 2002

I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at chrishanson5@hotmail.com. thanks.
By J. Darnell
May 26, 2003

Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route.
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks.
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Aug 24, 2008

Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend.
By MonksUseBroaddison
From: luxury
Jan 27, 2009

A bolt after the traverse was halfway exposed in November. Probably needs replacing.
By NEH
Mar 29, 2011
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

One of the few big hold endurance routes in the canyon. This is definitely a must do Penitente route!
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
May 27, 2014

This route was upgraded a year ago, and the two remaining studs were removed/patched 05/24/2014.