Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way 5.11c
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A climber working the traverse on "Weenie Way."
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Description This is a classic line with the best cop-out factor in the universe. Chase the diagonaling pockets left of Bullet the Blue Sky for 20 feet, passing below the feet of the Virgin. Expect soild 5.11 climbing on shallow pockets until the line turns vertical at two-thirds height. More continuous edge and pocket climbing gains the anchor, but the difficulty still hangs in at mid to low 5.11 right to the anchor. As a cop-out, Weenie Way, is simply a brilliant climb and a terrific addition to the best sector of rock in the canyon. The cop-out is in providing a top-rope for the real Los Hermanos (5.12c) or at least a chance to pre-place the draws.
Protection Eight draws and a rope.
The rising traverse of Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
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Thought this was a good shot. I don't know who the...
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Matt working on the route.
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At the crux.
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At the top.
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BETA PHOTO: Starting the traverse.
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BETA PHOTO: Continuing the traverse.
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BETA PHOTO: Going for the dish.
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Johnny cruxin'.
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The Good Doctor traversing the rail.
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Walking the traverse.
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The canyon felt electric that day.
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Kevin traversing Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way.
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Jay and the Virgin Painting.
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Seconding this great, gymnastic route.
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| Comments on Los Hermanos de la Weenie Way |
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By Tony Cappa
May 18, 2002
| This route is absolutely sweet! There are some sloping huecos and then a huge jug right on the corner (basically right in the middle of the climb), just to give enough rest to finish off the route (some weird traversing sequences up to a killer little bit of finger crack). Get on it! Be sure to blow a kiss to the Virgin Mary.... |
By Joe Collins
Jun 10, 2002
| It seems that the hanger for the third bolt is missing, which protects the crux of the traverse. A fall getting to the 4th bolt would certainly result in a groundfall. Bring a nut for the bolt or, better yet, bring a new hanger. I seem to remember the hanger missing when I was at Penitente 2 years ago. |
By Chris Hanson
Jul 3, 2002
| I noticed this too! I was there in middle June and was bummed after returning from bailing on this route last summer and was stoked to conquer it the 2nd time around. Does Mr. D'Antonio know about this? And what is the usual procedure...to contact the routes original bolter, or just pop a new hanger on there? I'm not sure if there's etiquette or procedure for this type of thing...i.e. maybe a reason the hanger was removed? Oh well, if anyone knows or comes across this email me at chrishanson5@hotmail.com. thanks. |
By J. Darnell
May 26, 2003
| Someone has replaced the third hanger on this spectacular route. |
By adampeters
From: Golden, Colorado
Nov 7, 2007
rating: 5.11c
| Yeah, I was wondering if anyone found my nephew's school picture below this route last weekend? The picture means a lot to me and I would really like to get it back. Thanks. |
By desbien
From: seattle,wa
Aug 24, 2008
| Don't blow the crux move. I took a big whipper moving between bolt three and four. Popped my ankle enough to ruin the weekend. |
By MonksUseBroaddison
From: luxury
Jan 27, 2009
| A bolt after the traverse was halfway exposed in November. Probably needs replacing. |
By NEH
Mar 29, 2011
rating: 5.11+
| One of the few big hold endurance routes in the canyon. This is definitely a must do Penitente route! |
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