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Los Gigantos Butte III (Fiend without a Face) 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 300', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b A3 [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Brian Povolny, March 17, 1984.
Page Views: 343
Submitted By: toddgordon on May 11, 2007

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Los Gigantos III. Photo; Todd Gordon

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Description 

This route climbs the East face of one of the Three big buttes east of the town of Round Rock. This is the smaller one, and the one closest to the road.

Location 

Drive on dirt roads from the trading post and school at Round Rock...Drive east, and then North over to the formation.

Protection 

Double or triple of cams, a few pins, some wide pro cams, and an extra 40 or 50 foot piece of rope for an anchor extention (to leave).


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By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 12, 2007

Here's some more details; Pitch 1; 5.9 A3 up to a good ledge. Pitch 2; Free and aid up an O W crack (2 bolts) on some very funky, hollow-sounding rock, to a belay on the right from Fixed Pins. Pitch 3; goes up a splitter crack (A1) which probably would go free (5.10-5.11 ?)...near the top... cut to the left (A3) and up some loose rock to the summit. We got caught in a very violent sandstorm during the first ascent. It was epic....zero visibility, poor communication, sandblasting, howling wind,.... scary stuff for us. I originally had another line picked out......this wild looking thin splitter (To the right of this route)...I even bought a bunch of pins mail order for this line;... but it looked too scary, and this line looked a bit easier;...I'm not sure it was;...we found the climbing on this route to be plenty challenging. Our rap anchor on top , I believe, was a tube-chock on a very long extended extra piece of rope. During the first ascent, we rappelled off single ropes and left them fixed, for we believe that if we rappelled on doubles and pulled our ropes, and they somehow got stuck, we might not survive out in the storm....We came back the next weekend (In better weather), jumared the fixed lines, and did proper double rope raps. I don't think this route has had a second ascent. It's out there....
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
Jun 9, 2007

For more info, click: joshuatreeclimb.com/Stories/pr...