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California
> Central Coast
> Pinnacles NP
> W Side
> Machete Ridge
> W Face
> Main Face
Los Banditos
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British A1
Avg: 2.8 from 4
votes
Routes in Main Face
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Machete Direct T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A1 R |
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Machete Direct - Free T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b R |
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Bill's Bad Bolts S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A1 |
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Rock Around the Clock S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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Lucky 13 -to- GP Headwall -to- Rock Around the Clock S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b A0 |
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Los Banditos T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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West Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1 R |
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Pigeon Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X |
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Robots of Dawn S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Son of Dawn Wall T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c A0-1 PG13 |
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Sons of the West T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c C0 |
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Icarus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 R |
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Desperado Chuteout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 450 ft (136 m), Grade II |
| FA: | Jim McConachie, Brad Young, Erik Bratton, Dennis Erik Strom, December 6, 2009 (route was started in October, 2007). |
| Page Views: | 2,036 total · 15/month |
| Shared By: | Brad Young on Oct 15, 2013 |
| Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Always check this web page before you visit for current conditions and nesting closures:
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
The following description is from the Pinnacles/Mud'n'Crud web site forum's new routes "sticky" thread. It uses the route numbers from the 2007 Pinnacles guidebook (that thread's description of the route also contains a link to a topo but I'm not sure how to link/insert that topo here):
Route number 815.4 Los Banditos 5.10a A1
The natural continuation of the Bandits in Bondage pitches. Four pitches.
Approach via the first pitch of the route The West Face (route # 811). Fifty feet past the end of this pitch (to the north, The West Face traverses after its first pitch) is a small meadow. Los Banditos starts from this meadow, 100 feet right of the start of Rock Around the Clock.
Pitch one (60 feet): start on a small pedestal of rock. Six aid bolts on an overhanging face lead up and left to a small roof which is at the bottom of a water streak. Two more aid bolts lead over the roof. Intimidating free moves from the eighth bolt (5.9) lead to a ledge and one directional bolt. The first pitch anchor is 5 feet to the right.
Pitch two (110 feet): This excellent pitch continues up the obvious water chute past 10 bolts (10 includes the directional from the first pitch). Getting into the chute is 5.9; two bulges higher in the chute are each 5.10a. The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and a two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (195 feet): Continue up the chute past five bolts on increasingly easy and runout climbing. The crux is after the second bolt (5.7). Large knobs can be slung for additional protection. One hundred fifty feet up, the chute branches. Take the straight up branch (that is, don't take the branch to the left). A two bolt anchor is obvious on a low angle slab, 30 feet below the bottom of the water chute which is descended as part of the Old Original Rappel Bypass variation (route # 836).
Pitch Four (90 feet): Climb the deeper chute which is 30 feet left (north) of the chute which makes up the Rappel Bypass (these chutes are obvious on page 338 of the guidebook). Small cams (the only gear on the route) can be used to protect the moves into the chute (5.5); the chute then becomes class three and four (and can be further protected by slung knobs).
End on the top of Machete Ridge, at a pine which is 30 feet from the end of Old Original's third pitch.
Route number 815.4 Los Banditos 5.10a A1
The natural continuation of the Bandits in Bondage pitches. Four pitches.
Approach via the first pitch of the route The West Face (route # 811). Fifty feet past the end of this pitch (to the north, The West Face traverses after its first pitch) is a small meadow. Los Banditos starts from this meadow, 100 feet right of the start of Rock Around the Clock.
Pitch one (60 feet): start on a small pedestal of rock. Six aid bolts on an overhanging face lead up and left to a small roof which is at the bottom of a water streak. Two more aid bolts lead over the roof. Intimidating free moves from the eighth bolt (5.9) lead to a ledge and one directional bolt. The first pitch anchor is 5 feet to the right.
Pitch two (110 feet): This excellent pitch continues up the obvious water chute past 10 bolts (10 includes the directional from the first pitch). Getting into the chute is 5.9; two bulges higher in the chute are each 5.10a. The pitch finishes with 15 feet of easy slab to a stance and a two bolt belay.
Pitch 3 (195 feet): Continue up the chute past five bolts on increasingly easy and runout climbing. The crux is after the second bolt (5.7). Large knobs can be slung for additional protection. One hundred fifty feet up, the chute branches. Take the straight up branch (that is, don't take the branch to the left). A two bolt anchor is obvious on a low angle slab, 30 feet below the bottom of the water chute which is descended as part of the Old Original Rappel Bypass variation (route # 836).
Pitch Four (90 feet): Climb the deeper chute which is 30 feet left (north) of the chute which makes up the Rappel Bypass (these chutes are obvious on page 338 of the guidebook). Small cams (the only gear on the route) can be used to protect the moves into the chute (5.5); the chute then becomes class three and four (and can be further protected by slung knobs).
End on the top of Machete Ridge, at a pine which is 30 feet from the end of Old Original's third pitch.
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