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The Thaiwand
Routes Sorted
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20 Kilos of Steel S 
Caveman S 
Circus Oz S 
Equatorial S 
Etcetera, Etcetera, Etcetera S 
Fit To Be Thai'd S 
Getting to Know You S 
King, The S 
Lord of the Thai's S 
Mala Mujer S 
Monkey Love S 
Orange Juice S 
Organ Grinder S 
Out of Sticks S 
Primal Scream S 
Solution 41 S 

Lord of the Thai's 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 5 pitches, 400', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Sam Lightner, Greg Collum, Larissa Collum , and a host of helpers
New Route: Yes
Season: dry
Page Views: 5,161
Submitted By: Sam Lightner, Jr. on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (19)
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Photo taken by Bobby Model. This is the last pitch...
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.

P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)

P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)

P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)

P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)

From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)


Location 

Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand


Protection 

A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.



Photos of Lord of the Thai's Slideshow Add Photo
12b pitch
12b pitch
the 3rd pitch
the 3rd pitch
Starting the top rappel circa 1994.
Starting the top rappel circa 1994.
the long view .in the 3rd
the long view .in the 3rd
on the 2rd
on the 2rd
Looking down from the second pitch on Lord of the Thais on the Thai Wand wall. Definitely my favorite crag in the Railay/ Tonsai area.
Looking down from the second pitch on Lord of the ...
the 2rd pitch
the 2rd pitch
the 1rd pitch
the 1rd pitch
the big view..in 3rd pitch
the big view..in 3rd pitch
Comments on Lord of the Thai's Add Comment
Show which comments
By Matt Robertson
Feb 28, 2007

The first two pitches can be linked. Doing so will be pumpy with runouts and/or rope drag. Pitch 3 is one of the finest bolted pitches on the planet.

In February 2007 Tim Emmett BASE-jumped off the top of this route after following every pitch free with a 25-pound pack.

By sooba
Aug 18, 2007

One of the all-time best routes ... also the last route I ever did. I climbed hard for 21 yrs, then onsighted it in 2002 and never climbed again. Go figure. Bobby Model rocks too.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007

I believe that the first pitch shares or is the same as the first pitch of "circus oz". If there are crowds or you're just flat not good enough to do all 5 pitches & top out (like uzz) you can rap from the first station.

By alabama slamma
Dec 10, 2008

the 7a+ pitch is one of best in Thailand. 7b pitch feels hard, but the exposure is out of this world. Railay must do!!

By steve edwards
From: SLC, UT
Aug 27, 2010

Circus Oz is independant but right next to it. Great route as well. Slightly easier, maybe 11+.

By Matt Pickren
Nov 12, 2010

Last 2 pitches can also easily be combined.

Amazing route! This is the type of climbing you dream of. The confident .11 climber should not be intimidated, short, WELL protected cruxes. Sam has a thing for perfectly placed bolts. GO GET ON IT!