|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
This is the best climb on the best wall in Thailand, and I have had many a climber tell me it was the best route they ever did. Enjoy.
P1: Start just right of the cave rappels and go up 80 feet to a ledge and anchor. (5.10b)
P2: Go up and through a bulge then some strenuous moves that put on a good pump. Work left to the left side of the large ledge. (5.11d)
P3: Go straight up from the belay to a bulge, then "brachiate" out it like a gibbon to wildly exposed finish. Fall off and you might need new shorts. (5.12a)
P4: The crux. First go up and through some hard bouldering moves, then traverse right to a steep headwall that is very pumpy. Finish at a stance. (5.12b)
From the stance, a few long moves take you up and left onto the arete, then left more to the cave and the rappels. (5.10d)
Up the center of the north face of the Thaiwand
A dozen quickdraws and two ropes to get down. The bolts should be good now, as it's been redone 3 times.
|By Matt Robertson|
Feb 28, 2007
The first two pitches can be linked. Doing so will be pumpy with runouts and/or rope drag. Pitch 3 is one of the finest bolted pitches on the planet.
In February 2007 Tim Emmett BASE-jumped off the top of this route after following every pitch free with a 25-pound pack.
Aug 18, 2007
One of the all-time best routes ... also the last route I ever did. I climbed hard for 21 yrs, then onsighted it in 2002 and never climbed again. Go figure. Bobby Model rocks too.
|By susan peplow|
From: Joshua Tree
Oct 19, 2007
I believe that the first pitch shares or is the same as the first pitch of "circus oz". If there are crowds or you're just flat not good enough to do all 5 pitches & top out (like uzz) you can rap from the first station.
|By alabama slamma|
Dec 10, 2008
the 7a+ pitch is one of best in Thailand. 7b pitch feels hard, but the exposure is out of this world. Railay must do!!
|By steve edwards|
From: SLC, UT
Aug 27, 2010
Circus Oz is independant but right next to it. Great route as well. Slightly easier, maybe 11+.
|By Matt Pickren|
Nov 12, 2010
Last 2 pitches can also easily be combined.
Amazing route! This is the type of climbing you dream of. The confident .11 climber should not be intimidated, short, WELL protected cruxes. Sam has a thing for perfectly placed bolts. GO GET ON IT!