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Lord of the Slings 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 4 pitches, 600', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jim and Christian Knight
Page Views: 6,418
Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Aug 28, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: General location of Lord of the Slings.

Description 

Lord of the Slings provides the easiest way to the top of Trilogy Buttress. After the ascent up the scree you are rewarded with increasingly awesome views of the canyon and valley. This is a must do route for any serious Rock Canyon climber.

Pitch 1: The original start begins on the south face of the base of the first buttress. There are 4 to 5 bolts scattered along this 180' of moderate (5.6) climbing. You might want to bring some protection if runouts bother you, but be prepared for massive rope drag if you do. Another option is to split this pitch into two by adding some gear to a blot found on a large ledge about halfway up. Bolt anchors protect the belay at the top. Move across the sandy ridge to the start of the next pitch.

Pitch 2: Belay from the base of the cliff where you can anchor into a bolt. Either go directly up the face to a small ledge, or move left on 4th class to gain the ledge. 80 feet of quality climbing past 7-8 bolts. Bolt anchors at the top. 5.9.

Pitch 3: Belay across the exposed ridge to the start of the next pitch. Look for the second set of bolts from the left. Go up 70 feet past ~6 bolts to double bolt anchors on a small ledge. 5.9+

Pitch 4: Continue up another 100 feet to the summit. ~10 bolts on 5.9+.

You can combine 3 & 4 if you use long runners on the first few bolts and have enough strength to swing through the overhanging sections.

Location 

Walk 10 minutes from the parking lot watching the north side of the canyon. After the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl Wall you will see Trilogy appearing up the scree slope directly to the east. Trilogyis identifiable because of its three distinct faces.

Protection 

Bolted with some optional gear on the first pitch. All pitches have bolted anchors. Bring lots of long runners.

Descent 

Walk off west.


Photos of Lord of the Slings Slideshow Add Photo
Skyler Holman starts upward on the upper face after clipping the second bolt (behind his body).
Skyler Holman starts upward on the upper face afte...
Wayne Pullman three-fourths of the way up the upper face.
Wayne Pullman three-fourths of the way up the uppe...
On a cold November morning, John Ross climbs pitch 2 of <em>Lord of the Slings</em>.
On a cold November morning, John Ross climbs pitch...
Cloud cover on P2 made for an eerie climb
Cloud cover on P2 made for an eerie climb
Jim Knight starting on the upper face of <em>Lord of the Slings</em>.
Jim Knight starting on the upper face of Lord ...
Climbers on the last pitch of Lord of the Slings. November 25, 2006.
Climbers on the last pitch of Lord of the Slings. ...
3rd pitch
3rd pitch
Today we were in the Misty Mountains!
Today we were in the Misty Mountains!
Topped out on Lord of the Slings.  Great view from here
Topped out on Lord of the Slings. Great view from...
Add Brain Full of Spiders to make this a top 5 climb in RC.
Add Brain Full of Spiders to make this a top 5 cli...
Wayne Pullman on the way up.
Wayne Pullman on the way up.
Free soloing the first pitch
Free soloing the first pitch

Comments on Lord of the Slings Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 25, 2014
By Kirk H
From: Murray, UT
Aug 13, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
Overall it was fun! In my opinion, the rock quality is fair at best. BRING YOUR HELMETS. Also, BRING YOUR DOUBLE LENGTH SLINGS.

SAFETY ALERT: AS YOU CLIP THE LAST BOLT ON THE FACE AT THE VERY TOP OF PITCH 2, THE LARGER BUSH IMMEDIATELY ABOVE YOU/IN FRONT OF YOU IS HOLDING BACK A LARGE PILE OF LOOSE ROCKS AND A COUPLE OF WATERMELON SIZED BOULDERS. CLIMB TO THE RIGHT OF THAT BUSH AND DO NOT DISTURB ITS BRANCHES. IT IS VERY LIKELY THAT THESE ROCKS WOULD END UP ON YOUR BELAYERS HEAD!

  • ** Is there a set of chain anchors somewhere at the top of this pitch (pitch 2)? I read somewhere that there are, but couldn't find them anywhere. The bush historically used as a second anchor point is DEAD! The single bolt on the top right of the ledge is a bit far away and awkward to belay a second from. I don't own the tools to put chain anchors in, but would if I did.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Aug 25, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route. The first pitch is pretty spaced out, so extra protection is a good idea, although it is only 5.5-5.6 climbing, lots of ledges and positive holds. I didn't use anything extra, but long draws are a good idea. Doing the unnamed routes on the west face would be a funner, better way to go. Spacey first two bolts on the second pitch. The first bolt at practically at your feet, probably more for anchoring the belay, and the next one is off to the right a ways. A fall there before clipping that bolt would be. . .bad. pretty consistent 5.8 (in my opinion) after that to the anchor bolts. Pitch three didn't seem like it's own pitch, more like part of pitch four. Pitch four was the best part of the whole thing. Consistent holds. fun bulges to get past. I'd give it a 5.9, not a +. + for the fun and where it all was, but not for difficulty. Very exposed, so that added some good fun to it all. Very cool route. Would love to do it again, but start from the unnamed routes.
By James Garrett
Sep 6, 2009

I think I like the limestone in Rock Canyon better than the south facing quartzite. It got my heart pumping, though....I will say that for it.
By Matt Jesperson
Nov 12, 2009

I loved this route. We used the alternate first pitch that is to the left of the 5.6 standard. Good stuff. The exposure is fun on the third pitch. Great views up the canyon from the top. The route was easy to follow and the belay ledges are huge with superb anchors.
By Andrew Seegmiller
From: Orem UT
Feb 28, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R

I back up sawyer even though i had to lead the first pitch which was the sketchy one. Next time you get to lead the first pitch sawyer. it was way fun though.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

First Multipitch I ever did. Fun Route.
I've done this route twice now and got a little bit spooked when I couldn't find the bolts on the first pitch (they are extremely spaced out). Make sure you are climbing up the south face if you are having a hard time looking for the bolts because there is a spot where I thought the route could go two ways: go right onto the south facing wall if you feel that way.
By BJB
From: Austin, TX
May 25, 2011
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R

First Multipitch I ever did. Fun Route.
I've done this route twice now and got a little bit spooked when I couldn't find the bolts on the first pitch (they are extremely spaced out). Make sure you are climbing up the south face if you are having a hard time looking for the bolts because there is a spot where I thought the route could go two ways: go right onto the south facing wall if you feel that way.
By Parker Alec Cross
From: Provo, UT
Sep 14, 2011

Just take a couple pieces of protection for the first pitch and you're golden. The bolts are pretty run-out on that first one, so I just popped a couple cams in before making an exposed move. I think I used two cams, one between the 3rd and 4th, and one below the last in some horizontal cracks. There's tons of sweet options for pro placement to give you a little confidence with the run-outs, because, let's face it, without some extra protection it's like an R-rated pitch. You'd definitely deck if you took a fall. That being said, the climbing is super easy. And, as has been said, take a bunch of slings. On the last pitch we used 2 4' slings, and 5 or 6 2' slings, then draws the rest of the way to the chains. Makes the rope drag almost unnoticeable.
By Tim Harper
Nov 5, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13

Overall, fun route. And / However:

There first pitch (180 ft) has an anchor station mid-point. Therefore, it is possible to single-rope rap with a 60' rope. Bring a few cams, we did fine with a #2, #1, and a few smaller, although there was a few spots I wished I had my #3. There are some solid placements on the top part of the 1st pitch, but be sure to use slings to reduce rope drag.

The 2nd pitch (80 ft, after the walk) is CHALKY. My partner and I both fell at the same spot because rock gave way. The anchors at the top of the 2nd pitch is an old tree and a single bolt. We used the bolt and put the rope around the tree for backup. However, it would be a good idea to give the rope a little tug after the first person rappels it and make sure the rope is not stuck, as the tree adds a lot of friction and you may accidentally cross the rope. We got our rope stuck here and almost had to climb back up the pitch again (but fortunately a party climbing behind us saved us the trouble).

I took a few rocks to the helmet on this one. Don't leave your helmet home.
By Aaron Shields
From: Lehi, UT
Mar 29, 2013

This was my first multi pitch climb (I think). Loved it! Interestingly enough, the crazy runout between bolts on p1 didn't make me as nervous as the little scree spine you cross to get to p2. We split P1 and belayed from the ledge, which made the rope drag more manageable.
I would NOT recommend doing the last two together without slings: I felt like I was pulling up my second, the rope drag was so bad. Great climbing, though. When we were getting ready to rap down, the flake I was standing on broke and shredded my leg, so be careful on those vertical flakes at the top!
By John Ross
From: Wasatch Front, UT
Apr 27, 2013

What a view from up here!
By Adam Jensen
From: Murray, UT
Jun 19, 2013

Best part of this climb is everything above p2: fun moves and lots of air under your feet! Further below is "adventurous" with run-outs, breakable holds, and the odd belay stance.
By Josh Allred
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

One of my favorites. Climb Brain Full of Spiders on the way up and take a short walk to Triology to make it one of the finest climbs in RC.
By Alex Marsden
From: Utah
Aug 31, 2013

Fun route but walk off, too much rope drag to do the rappel.
By jzp
From: Pleasant Grove
Sep 1, 2013

alex had to leave some gear so we could rap off, this route could definitely use some chains at the top of p2 with the tree, and the end. bring a change of shoes.
By Tim Moore
Mar 20, 2014
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Awesome fun route. Definitely run out, a little sketchy, and flakey pretty much the entire time. Bringing your own protection is highly recommended. Route doesn't get that hard. 5.9 are the hardest move. A fun multi pitch with many options once you are on the upper face. Bring plenty of draws and you don't have to turn it into two pitches. Awesome view from the top and a walk down the front face of canyon.
By mudgek
Aug 25, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

As mentioned in another comment, pitch 1 now has a 2 bolt anchor at mid-height, making it possible to rapple to the base on a 60m rope, but is supplied with only 1 rap ring. If you rap from here, I suggest you add a quick-link to the 2nd bolt.
The move off the ledge at 2/3rds height past the bolt, where the original description suggests breaking pitch 1 into 2 pitches is definitely harder than 5.6. Unless I missed something, it required locking off on 1 arm to reach a bomber hold up higher; not a 5.6 move in my book.
The 2 bolt anchor at the top of pitch 1 is funky, with 1 bolt on a vertical face and the 2nd bolt 3-4' away on a flat face.
There will be lots of rock fall from the leader on pitch 2, most of it small, but with larger rocks possible when he reaches the rock strewn ledge at the top of pitch 2. You'd better be wearing your helmet, paying close attention, and flatten yourself against the wall when the rocks come down.
There is only 1 bolt for the anchor at the top of pitch 2, and there is no way I would trust the nearly dead tree there with the sling around it. Another bolt should be added to this anchor.
IMHO, all of the routes up the final face (pitches 3 & 4 of Lord of the Slings) need 2 bolt anchors on the wall itself at their base. Belaying from the single bolt at the top of pitch 2 means you have 15' or so of slack line over to the first bolt on the wall. This exposes the leader to a significantly longer fall if the belayer isn't keeping the slack out of the line. As broken up and featured as the wall is, this greatly increases the risk of injury, and rescue of an injured climber here would be very difficult, to say the least. This slack also adds that much more rope the leader has to carry up the wall and lift when he makes his clips.
After pitch 2, I was wondering why this climb rated 3 stars, but the final wall was one of the longest (if you combine pitches 3 & 4) and finest climbs at the grade that I've done. Very well bolted, but note the rock fall hazard at the top from your rope as you belay your 2nd up.
Overall, rock quality made the climbing nerve wracking (especially on pitch 1), the anchors were funky at best and down right dangerous at worst, and pitch 1 is unnecessarily runout; hence my 2 star rating. Yet despite all that, I would probably do this route again. Maybe next time I'll try the alternate start higher up the gully.