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Climb past two bolts to a ledge, transition onto the face and continue up past two more bolts to a rappel station.
Four (4) bolt protection. Bolt anchor.
|By david baker|
From: jamul, ca
Feb 9, 2006
This climb is some of the best rock in Mission Gorge. The crux is rocking on to your left foot at the transition from the finger crack onto the face. This climb is located 10 feet to the left of Art the Pissant a.k.a. unknown number 3. See my comments on this climb for directions. Lord of the rings is also shown in some guide books as (unknown # 4).
Mar 14, 2011
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
Nasty fall potential if you miss the 3rd clip. Short folks who don't want to commit to the face before clipping may want to place an extended piece in the finger crack to the right before moving out. This said, the climb is excellent! Have fun.
|By Kyle Wills|
From: San Diego CA
Jul 14, 2011
Establishing oneself on the upper face is Very difficult. I am very glad I chose not to lead this one.
|By Indira Lower|
Nov 1, 2011
I DID fall, AT THE THIRD bolt. I was shoulder-to-bolt, stepped my left foot over and DOWN I went. It's a he'll of a fall. I didn't even think of placing. That's a great idea. I'm taking a #2 and 3 nut next time!
|By Joan Bertini|
Jul 14, 2012
Joan Bertini was the first FA on this route and it was always meant to be a mixed climb, like most of the routs at MG.
Oct 9, 2012
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
This route is amazing! Hard featured moves but i felt safe the entire time. I don't see much of a fall hazard here as some have said. This is a must climb!
From: the bedroom
Jul 15, 2013
Stay out of the finger crack to the right of the bolts for a more sustained climb - as a bonus, I actually found it easier to make the transition to the upper face when approaching from below, rather than from the pod on the right. A stout, enjoyable climb.