|Type:||Sport, 1 pitch|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Alan Nelson, 1996|
|Submitted By:||Richard M. Wright on Aug 15, 2001|
|Comments on Lord of the Rings||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
Mar 5, 2002
|Definitely loose rock, weird moves, especially that one over the roof. Needs a lot of cleaning to earn 2 stars.|
By clint dillard
From: Louisville, Co
Jan 15, 2006
|This route has cleaned up a bit, but still be heads up for rock around the route. As the guidebook says, "it's better than it looks." Like the rest of the 5.10s in this area and noted above, it is soft for its grade. If you're wanting to climb the route this time of year, get on it early because it loses sun mid morning. The 3rd/4th (5th for some) class traverse kind of sucks with packs on, so you may want to rack up before you make the step across.|
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Apr 1, 2010
rating: 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Definitely better than it looks, and definitely better as you get high.
The roof is absolutely one of the singular joys of the entire canyon, worth scrubbing up all the mankey choss just to work out the moves--which, not by the way, aren't the crux of the climb once you get the sequence down. On the whole, I think it's only a 10a or possibly b for shorter climbers.
A great alternative once the traffic thickens over on the south-facing side....
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Mar 16, 2013
|Climbs better than it looks. Give it a shot.|