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5. Maggot Buttress
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Lord of the Flies  T 

Lord of the Flies  

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Carpenter 1999
Page Views: 323
Submitted By: Timmijal on Sep 12, 2011

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BETA PHOTO: The Start of Lord of the flies.


Climb up easy ground to the Bolt, Climb past the bolt (crux), and continue up cracks to the top.


This route is located at the Maggot Buttress to the right of the poker pile and before you reach Hermit Haven. Look for a lone bolt 10 ft up on a smooth face


Standard Rack larger cams are helpful,and a quick-draw for the bolt

The tree that was used for an Anchor is now very much dead.. There are some better looking trees further back, I would say this climb could use a bolted anchor if i can get a hold of some equipment i will try and place one up there

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By MatthewH
Oct 18, 2015

The current situation at the top is less-than-ideal, on an otherwise fun route. Above the prominent dead tree you see from the ground, there are some better trees a little ways back for the anchor (expect a dirty scramble and watch the rope over the dead tree's branches). Currently (10/11/15), for rappelling there are two trees slung with some webbing, an old cordelette, and one oval non-locker.
By Climbnh
From: Co Springs, CO
Dec 13, 2011

I skipped school to put this route up and was supposed to be taking a lord of the flys exam hence the name. I originally did it all trad. But put a bolt in as the micro nut's I had doubbled up probably would not of held.

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