|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 80'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]|
|FA:||Urmas and Becky Franosch, Bruce Morris|
|Submitted By:||Nick Stayner on Aug 9, 2008|
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|Comments on Lord Caffeine||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
From: San Jose
Aug 24, 2009
One of my favorites. Mix of fingerlocks, heel -toes, tip layback and chicken wings.
Consists of 5 different parts.
First part is basically insecure face climb until you enter into wide section
Second part left side in short ow -10ft
Third exiting from wide part and relatively good fingers for average hands until you get good handjam rest just under the crux. This section can be hard for small fingers.
Forth : the crux of the route - two powerful moves very thin - tip layback until you get good fingerlock
Fifth : exit as chimney with chicken wings
This route take offset nuts very well. Took me 3 times until redpont. At first it was feeling that Lord Caffein is harder than Tideline, but not anymore
By Bob Rotert
Aug 9, 2010
|Sweet route, felt like a SANDBAG to me! Take some caffine and have fun!!|
By David Aguasca!
From: New York
Sep 14, 2010
|The fingers crux, IMHO, is 5.11-...everything else is solid 5.10.|
By Nick Stayner
From: Billings, MT
Sep 10, 2012
I thought I heard something about how the first ascentionists wanted to rate this thing .11b. Then Bachar did it and told them it wouldn't be rated any harder than .10d in the Valley.... and that's the grade that stuck.
Might not be true, but it's kind of funny and I heard it from a couple of Bachar's pals when I lived out there.
By Jordan Collins
From: South Lake Tahoe
Aug 5, 2014
|Could most deffinetely use a #4 or #5 in the big offwidth pod thing. The beginning takes nuts really well. The top finger sized cams. This climb made me feel and look like a bitch. My confidence is still slightly tender|