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Loosey In The Sky
5.12a/b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2.7 from 3
votes
Routes in Main Wall
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A Thousand Ships T,S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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A Twitch Upon the Thread (submitted as Unknown) S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Cat Tracks T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Invisible Crowns T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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King of the Mountain T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Loosey In The Sky T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Manalive S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pandemonium S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Priceless S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Touch Gold S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tremendous Trifles S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Wind Machine T,S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, Sport, Alpine, 340 ft (103 m), 4 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Mark Tarrant, Richard Wright, May, 2008 |
| Page Views: | 1,721 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Mark Tarrant on Jun 2, 2008 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Who would want to do an alpine rock climb with the word "loose" in it, right? Well, the name of the route might not sound very enticing but don't let it keep you away. It started out with some loose blocks on the belay ledges. Now that they've been tossed off, the route is in good condition with the only unpleasantness being some lichen here and there. Loosey is a 4-pitch mixed route that starts on the wall directly behind the EIH. Apart from a short, height-dependent V5-ish sequence on P1, the route comes in easier with four excellent pitches on good alpine granite. The stopper crux is easily avoided with a quick tug on the bolt, allowing you to get on with the fun climbing on the rest of the route. The prominent feature is the 3rd pitch "super slab" that you'll wish kept going and going.
Pitch 1: 5.12a/b, 12 bolts, 3-bolt anchor, 80'. Climb the nice face up to a small roof and the crux at bolt six. This short, reachy and thin sequence--literally 3', getting your feet from under the roof to over the roof-- puts you on a superb wall of sustained 5.11 for 30' until it eases off 20' below the belay.
P2: 5.9, 3 bolts, gear, 3-bolt anchor, 90'. Follow 3 bolts up and right into a nice dihedral that takes good gear (save a mini-cam for the end). Step right at the end of the corner to a good belay ledge.
P3: 5.10a, 12 bolts, 3-bolt anchor, 95'. Step right and shoot up a beautiful green and gray slab. It's mostly 5.9 with the crux coming about halfway up. This pitch is what climbing at Empire is all about (and there's more in the vicinity).
P4: 5.11c/d, 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 70'. Similar to the last pitch of Priceless but more straightforward. Run up a low angle slab for 35' to a vertical wall with 5 clips. The last 8' is often dirty, despite cleaning, since it seems to drain water off the top. Lower back to the belay.
Descent: Rap the route.
Pitch 1: 5.12a/b, 12 bolts, 3-bolt anchor, 80'. Climb the nice face up to a small roof and the crux at bolt six. This short, reachy and thin sequence--literally 3', getting your feet from under the roof to over the roof-- puts you on a superb wall of sustained 5.11 for 30' until it eases off 20' below the belay.
P2: 5.9, 3 bolts, gear, 3-bolt anchor, 90'. Follow 3 bolts up and right into a nice dihedral that takes good gear (save a mini-cam for the end). Step right at the end of the corner to a good belay ledge.
P3: 5.10a, 12 bolts, 3-bolt anchor, 95'. Step right and shoot up a beautiful green and gray slab. It's mostly 5.9 with the crux coming about halfway up. This pitch is what climbing at Empire is all about (and there's more in the vicinity).
P4: 5.11c/d, 5 bolts, 2-bolt anchor, 70'. Similar to the last pitch of Priceless but more straightforward. Run up a low angle slab for 35' to a vertical wall with 5 clips. The last 8' is often dirty, despite cleaning, since it seems to drain water off the top. Lower back to the belay.
Descent: Rap the route.
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