Loosening the Lid V6
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| Type: | Boulder, 10 feet |
| Consensus: | V5 [details] |
| FA: | Greg Parker |
| Submitted By: | Dan Dewell on Jul 7, 2003 |
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BETA PHOTO: The "Loosening the Lid" Boulder is located to the ...
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Description "Loosening the Lid" is a burly sit-start problem on the Southern side of the "Loosening the Lid" Boulder. Start with a right hand on a good ledge, left under the arete and use a heel hook somewhere in there, then move up decent holds and work out to the arete. The landing is excellent, but slightly sloped.
Protection Pad and a Spotter
BETA PHOTO: The "Loosening the Lid" Problem on the Southern fa...
| Jay on the first and probably hardest move on this...
| Jay on Loosening the Lid, fun problem.
| Matt.
| drew
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| Comments on Loosening the Lid |
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By jamison coin Feb 13, 2013
| It looks like everyone is bailing out right after the first move which is like a v2 variation I think Loosening The Lid's beta is to match the second hold and throw out left to a hold on the arete and finish on bad holds (crux) or better yet after matching the second hold go left even more so your right hand is on the arete and your left hand is way out left on a slick crystal edge for The Big Squeeze. |
By Chris treggE Administrator From: Madison, WI Feb 14, 2013
| Yo if you are referring to our photos, yah we had no idea what problem this was when we saw it, nor where any "original line" was supposed to go (though it looks like we did what is shown in the beta photo). We thought it was maybe V3 coming out from under the roof and climbing up the face. This seemed line a much more natural line than moving left as you suggest -- it didn't even cross my mind to go that way. Pretty fun boulder! |
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