|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 60', Grade II|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]|
|FA:||Ben Kiessel and Bill Grasse|
|Submitted By:||Ben Kiessel on Mar 8, 2013|
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Loosen Up||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 8, 2013
We had just climbed Hidden and McYetta's Loaf and I was talking to Jeff Widen on the phone about the plan for the next day. I mentioned this tower and he said that Jeremy already got the FA of the tower. Sure enough. Jeremy snaked it out from under our noses.
It sat there ignored for years and then got two routes put up on it within 2 weeks.
By Trevor Bowman
From: Sheridan, WY
Mar 9, 2015
A good VOG route with mostly clean, solid rock and physical, splitter crack action. There is a little soft rock and hollow bits, especially at the finale, and a decent bit of silt on the inside of the crack. The last bit after the chimney pod is burly, and was a touch too wide for fists for me.
I placed a #1 (but a #2 would have been better), but nothing smaller could possibly be placed. The #5 only went in one spot, and was crunched; an old #4 would be better, or a baggy new #4.
The 4th class class traverse at the end of the land bridge is very exposed and a bit heady. A rope wouldn't really do any good, as there are no gear possibilities.