Loosen Up  5.11

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Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet, Grade II Consensus:  5.11 [details] FA:  Ben Kiessel and Bill Grasse New Route:  Yes Submitted By:  Ben Kiessel on Mar 8, 2013 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Bill at the crux.

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Description 

Climb up the wide hands to fists crack to enter a big pod.
Rest and compose yourself for the 5.11 OW exit.

Two bolt anchor
(We opted to put in our own anchor since Jeremy made it sound like his line was not very rappel friendly. At least without a stick clip or a fixed line.)

Location 

This route climbs the analog crack of 'Tighten it Up'.

This route is accessed by hiking across the land bridge to the NNW of the tower. Once across the land bridge and at the base of the tower carefully scramble around the Eastern side of the tower. There is some big exposure but it's only 4th class. That being said a rope might make you feel better. There is a big ledge on the NNE side of the tower and two cracks splitting the tower. 'Loosen Up' is on the left.

The right hand crack will definitely go free and will give someone a fun FA.

Protection 

Single #.5-1 Camalot
Double #2 Camalot
Triple #3 and #4 Camalot
Single #5 Camalot

Photos of Loosen Up Slideshow

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Looking back at the tower across the land bridge. ...

The land bridge is to the left of the tower in thi...