Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Tighten Up Tower
Select Route:
Lighten Up 
Loosen Up 
Tighten It Up 

Loosen Up 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Ben Kiessel and Bill Grasse
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: Ben Kiessel on Mar 8, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Looking back at the tower across the land bridge. ...

Description 

Climb up the wide hands to fists crack to enter a big pod.
Rest and compose yourself for the 5.11 OW exit.

Two bolt anchor
(We opted to put in our own anchor since Jeremy made it sound like his line was not very rappel friendly. At least without a stick clip or a fixed line.)


Location 

This route climbs the analog crack of 'Tighten it Up'.

This route is accessed by hiking across the land bridge to the NNW of the tower. Once across the land bridge and at the base of the tower carefully scramble around the Eastern side of the tower. There is some big exposure but it's only 4th class. That being said a rope might make you feel better. There is a big ledge on the NNE side of the tower and two cracks splitting the tower. 'Loosen Up' is on the left.

The right hand crack will definitely go free and will give someone a fun FA.


Protection 

Single #.5-1 Camalot
Double #2 Camalot
Triple #3 and #4 Camalot
Single #5 Camalot



Photos of Loosen Up Slideshow Add Photo
Bill at the crux.
Bill at the crux.
The land bridge is to the left of the tower in this photo.
The land bridge is to the left of the tower in thi...
Comments on Loosen Up Add Comment
Show which comments
By Ben Kiessel
Mar 8, 2013

We had just climbed Hidden and McYetta's Loaf and I was talking to Jeff Widen on the phone about the plan for the next day. I mentioned this tower and he said that Jeremy already got the FA of the tower. Sure enough. Jeremy snaked it out from under our noses.

It sat there ignored for years and then got two routes put up on it within 2 weeks.

By Jeremy Aslaksen
From: Albuquerque, NM
Mar 18, 2013

Nice guys!

Hope to run into you dudes out and about.

Hey to Jeff as well.

Jeremy Aslaksen
ABQ, NM