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Loose Rock 
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Loose Rock 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
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Page Views: 171
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jun 12, 2010
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Description 

Loose Rock goes straight up the face, approximately ten feet to the right of Hammer. Mantle your way up onto the good ledge about ten feet off the ground and cruise the rest of the way to the top on consistent 5.8 climbing. Balancy moves with mediocre holds comprise most of the climbing, which make it interesting and thoughtful.

The chunks of loose rock the name refers to are near the top, but they didn't come off for me and are probably avoidable. Be careful of what you're cranking on as you get near the top though.


Location 

Ten feet right of Hammer, Loose Rock goes straight up the face.


Protection 

Standard TR set up - small/medium nuts and cams will do the job. Long slings are helpful.

See comment below for leading because I TR'd it.



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By Roy Reichle
From: Saint Helena, NE
Jul 3, 2012

I just led this last weekend. It's a little thin, but very doable with thin wires, a little wandering, and creative use of long slings. Leading it really made the climb more fun because the seriousness of a fall forced me to remain focused and precise even on easier climbing.

By Pete Hunt
Jul 9, 2012

Cool, thanks for your input Roy and nice job on the lead!