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L-Buttress
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L to R R to L Alpha
Hammer TR 
I don't remember... TR 
Loose Rock TR 
Poison Vines T,TR 
Power Booster T,TR 

Loose Rock 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Pete Hunt on Jun 12, 2010

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Description 

Loose Rock goes up the face approximately ten feet to the climber's right of Hammer. Mantle your way up onto the good ledge about ten feet off the ground and climb the rest of the way on consistent and interesting 5.8 climbing.

A bit of loose stuff the name refers to is near the top, but it didn't come off for me and is probably avoidable. Be careful of what you're cranking on as you get higher, but this route is still worth doing.

Location 

Ten feet right of Hammer, straight up the face.

Protection 

Standard TR set up - small/medium nuts and cams. Long slings are helpful.


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By Roy Reichle
From: Saint Helena, NE
Jul 3, 2012

I just led this last weekend. It's a little thin, but very doable with thin wires, a little wandering, and creative use of long slings. Leading it really made the climb more fun because the seriousness of a fall forced me to remain focused and precise even on easier climbing.