Loose Lucy 5.11+ PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11+ [details] |
| FA: | Steve Levin & Mike Munger, October 2007 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Fixed Hardware: | 1 Lead Pin [details] |
| Submitted By: | Steve Levin on Oct 20, 2007 |
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2013 Raptor Nesting Closure in effect - NOW LIFTED MORE INFO >>>
As of Feb. 1, 2013, a seasonal wildlife closure is in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons.
The closure starts Feb. 1 through July 31, or until further notice and includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
For more info, visit dnr.state.co.us/newsapp/press.asp?PressId=8152
From an Eldorado Canyon tweet, the Redgarden Wall closures were lifted May 6, 2013.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
Action Committee for Eldorado
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Description This tackles the creaky 20-foot roof between Mickey Mouse Die-Rect and Daydream. Observant climbers will have noted a piece of tat (now gone) at a fixed pin low down on the roof that has been there for years and years. (I have subsequently learned this was placed by Roger Briggs around 1969 on an aborted aid solo attempt.)
Hike past Mr. Natural to wooden steps. Begin at the top of the steps.
Climb an easy open book up the slab to a broken ledge. Start out the roof at a short, left-facing corner. Crank to a fixed pin, undercling to huge holds atop a flake, then power to buckets. Now pull up and over the lip. Continue up and left to the Daydream rappel.
Our ground-up attempt quickly degenerated into an aidfest as we jettisoned loose rock and scared ourselves silly. The loose rock is (mostly) gone, but still be aware of what you pull on. Big holds, big moves and a crux gaining the lip.
Location The Lower West Face of Redgarden Wall.
Rappel from a threaded block up and left on the upper wall, above the route Daydream.
Protection A few wires, small cams to 3.5".
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