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Loose Goose 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V British: S 4b [details]
FA: Fritz Wiessner, Beckett Howorth, Hans Kraus, 1942
Page Views: 972
Submitted By: John Peterson on Mar 31, 2006
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A high quality route just past Up Yours. I found the cruxes a little harder than the 5.5 guidebook rating but they are short and well protected. Loose rock isn't much of a problem although there is a little in the middle of the route; the cruxes are all clean and solid. Lots of good climbing. Finish with the last pitch of Up Yours / Horney for a more direct line and better climbing.

An obvious crack / corner system leads up the clean rock just left of Up Yours / Elder Cleavage. Do a long pitch up to the GT ledge and then on up.


Just left of Up Yours


Standard Gunks rack

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 3, 2012
By Cory B
Jul 9, 2007

Great route, though a little dirty. I also found the difficulty to be a little harder than 5.5.

By losbill
Aug 18, 2007
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Repeated Loose Goose recently having first done it several years ago. The few moves at the crack in the LF dihedral 40 feet up seem to be solid 5.6. The hand crack corner up to the big pine tree rap station also seems to be solid 5.6. Both sections have excellent pro. Climbing on P2 and P3 is worthwhile in the 5.4 to 5.5 range.

When I first did the route I moved up and left for P2 and walked left and climbed up the big, dirty ramp/corner/break for P3. It was okay.

The way I did P2 and P3 the other day featured much better climbing. Move straight up from the P1 belay to the GT Ledge for P2 and then up, angling left around the big roofs for P3. Go straight up to the top, with a few demanding moves including a mantle finish. Move right 25 feet and scramble down to rap station ledge for rap. P2 is a bit licheny, P3 is clean. I didn't find loose rock on either pitch. Done this way it is well worth continuing beyond P1.

I will be interested to see Williams' route description and grade in the new Nears guide.

By Josh Giblin
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 8, 2008

This route makes for a nice night climb as well.

By losbill
Nov 16, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

New Williams' guidebook is out. It is excellent with a number of new moderate routes, get it! Williams rates LG as 5.6, two-star, PG rating, route as I described above.

By Spiro
Apr 4, 2009
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

Think this was a great 5.6, good for new leaders.

By Seth James Kaeser
Jul 14, 2009

Nothing Loose about the Goose. Good climbing at the grade on clean rock. After first crux you can safely examine the variation on Crack Climb (5.8* G, making the whole climb near 3* quality)...this variation is a great option, with a rest below the tuff stuff and adequate gear throughout (make haste). This option will send you up to the Swiss Air rappel (up and left of route terminus...about 120 feet, one 60m rappel will reach a 3/4th class gully scramble to the bottom of the cliff). Enjoy!

By BrianRH
Nov 22, 2010

I initially commented to add that the 5.8 crack climb variation is well worth it but that has been added as a separate climb now...

reclimbed this 8/17/2013 and it does seem like a solid 5.6+ although the crux is short and as well protected as a crux can be. Was a bit harder than I remembered when I chose it as an introduction to outdoor climbing for a friend. The second crux is easier and equally well protected.

By Kevin Heckeler
From: Upstate New York
Aug 6, 2011

I second or third that the 5.8 crack variation is worth it. I followed it today and had issues despite being a solid 5.9 follower. It's very pumpy for a few moves, and reachy. Despite this it's a great 30 feet of climbing. I will need to go back and lead the standard route sometime. Good section of wall...

By Meghan Spiro
Oct 9, 2011
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

One of the easier 5.6's in the Gunks. I agree with Spiro; good route for new leaders. Both cruxes are well protected. Easy scramble in the middle is run-out.

By Neil Steinert
Jun 17, 2012
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

I did this one again today and made the same mistake I did a few years ago. Somehow I manage to get into this open book to the *climber's right* of where it looks like Loose Goose goes -- I'm using the current Williams guide book -- I don't believe this 'open book' is the 5.8 that is left of Loose Goose called "Crack Climb" (5.8), but unfortunately the guide book isn't clear about this. I suppose it could be the 5.8 variation listed in the Loose Goose description, but it isn't clear. Anyway, for your reference, the 'open book' you can see from the ground is not the right way to go if you want to be climbing 5.6!! You should climb up the slab face to the left of that open book :) Hopefully next time I'll climb it the correct way (on route)!

By Brian McLaughlin
Sep 3, 2012

I rope soloed this in December of '90 just as a storm was moving in. I was trying to go fast to get one last route in, and all went well until the last pitch when the storm hit and the rope froze to the wall! By the time I topped out I was the only climber and mine was the only car anywhere along the road.