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(2) Hanging Gardens
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Chockstone Chimney 
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From Something to Nothing 
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Grace and Danger 
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Hanging Gardens Route 
Hobbit Hole 
Loose Block Overhang 
Sandy's Direct 
Scorpion Seam 
Sesame Street 
Sickle, The 
slow drag (loose block overhang variation) 
So Embarrassing 
Tips City 
Unsorted Routes:

Loose Block Overhang 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Monty Mayko, Jim Garrett-1975
Page Views: 1,244
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jun 9, 2007
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Matt on his FIRST LEAD!!!! Very well done!


A classic, old-school route breaching the Hanging Gardens wall's left side. This route combines some physical, but manageable wide crack climbing down low with a steep, overhanging bulge up high.

P1(5.8)--Like many of its neighboring climbs on the Hanging Gardens wall this route has numerous possible variations leading to the first pitch anchors, but the most direct line goes up a nice offwidth crack.

P2(5.9)--The second pitch ascends the steep headwall above via faceholds and awkward jams in the crack. The beginning of this is strange and the holds seem to all face the wrong way, but the crux is brief and perfectly protected so just go for it! Once past the bulge the climbing continues through more steep but thankfully moderate terrain to the next set of anchors at a nice ledge up right.

These can easily be combined into one pitch, making for a longer, more enjoyable climb.


About 20 feet to the right of Tips City on the Hanging Garden Wall's left side. Easily identified by the 3-4" crack that starts about 10 feet up.


Cams to 4", plus a sling for a chockstone near the top of pitch one.

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By Greg Coulter
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A very enjoyable route. Excellent pro and solid holds. Was a bit dirty and looked as though it had not been climbed in a while, yet still very enjoyable.

By Mr. Stickleback
From: Portland
Dec 10, 2007

Best when climbed as one pitch.

By matt bruton
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 3, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

My first trad lead, back in may of 07. now I'm going on to 5.12.

By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Jun 25, 2012

Is there actually a loose overhanging block? Is it a safety concern or just a name?