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(2) Hanging Gardens
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Loose Block Overhang 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Monty Mayko, Jim Garrett-1975
Page Views: 1,439
Submitted By: Adam Therneau on Jun 9, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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Matt on his FIRST LEAD!!!! Very well done!

Description 

A classic, old-school route breaching the Hanging Gardens wall's left side. This route combines some physical, but manageable wide crack climbing down low with a steep, overhanging bulge up high.

P1(5.8)--Like many of its neighboring climbs on the Hanging Gardens wall this route has numerous possible variations leading to the first pitch anchors, but the most direct line goes up a nice offwidth crack.

P2(5.9)--The second pitch ascends the steep headwall above via faceholds and awkward jams in the crack. The beginning of this is strange and the holds seem to all face the wrong way, but the crux is brief and perfectly protected so just go for it! Once past the bulge the climbing continues through more steep but thankfully moderate terrain to the next set of anchors at a nice ledge up right.

These can easily be combined into one pitch, making for a longer, more enjoyable climb.

Location 

About 20 feet to the right of Tips City on the Hanging Garden Wall's left side. Easily identified by the 3-4" crack that starts about 10 feet up.

Protection 

Cams to 4", plus a sling for a chockstone near the top of pitch one.


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By Greg Coulter
Aug 15, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A very enjoyable route. Excellent pro and solid holds. Was a bit dirty and looked as though it had not been climbed in a while, yet still very enjoyable.
By Mr. Stickleback
From: Portland
Dec 10, 2007

Best when climbed as one pitch.
By matt bruton
From: Colorado Springs, Colorado
Sep 3, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

My first trad lead, back in may of 07. now I'm going on to 5.12.
By Burk S.
From: Lebanon, Oregon
Jun 25, 2012

Is there actually a loose overhanging block? Is it a safety concern or just a name?
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Sep 28, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

This route is best done as a single pitch to the top. If doing this, bring doubles from 1-3", a 4" piece, and some slings. The business on the offwidth down low is fun, and the crux in the middle is all of 5.9+. One last move around the final bulge gets the blood flowing before you top out. Belay off a tree or something.

Anchor bolts on this route are rather manky. Do not suggest climbing the bolted junk on the right side.