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|Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. MORE INFO >>>|
Mark would say that this climb takes you into "the tufa zone." Wild, melting features dominate the center of this wall and this route goes right through the middle of it all.
P1: Start under the giant tufas and climb up through them, exiting left onto a large ledge. (You could also start on Snuffalufagus, probably a good idea).
P2: Head up and right on pockets and tufas, excellent pitch.
P3: Continue up and right to a belay under a huge stalactite. Look left into the dark, overhanging "hunchback" for a wild view of tufas and stalactites.
P4: Exit the belay to the right and head straight up, pulling through some steep crux moves just before the chains.
Descent... we rapped the route w/ a 70 but there has been some work done on this wall since then. There is probably a more direct descent option now, as rapping the route w/o getting your rope stuck is tricky.
Start right in the middle of the wall, under the huge overhanging stalactite roof.
Pretty sure there were Ti and SS glue in bolts... if not, it's expansion bolts from 2007 which would be questionable at best.
Topping out the 1st pitch
Dut nearing the anchor at the top of the 2nd pitch...