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> Big Tree Wall (Khao K…
Looney Tunes
5.10- YDS 6a French 18 Ewbanks VI+ UIAA 18 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 3 from 3
votes
Routes in Big Tree Wall (Khao Khom)
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Blackbeard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Davey Jones' Locker S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Gypsy Dance S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Gypsy Follies S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hornbill Way S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Looney Tunes S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Orange Kush S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Pirate Dreams S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Saka Hu Saka Ha S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Sea Hippies S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Typsy Gypsy S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Drew Spaulding, Mark Miner, Justin Day |
| Page Views: | 1,415 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Williams on Oct 19, 2011 |
| Admins: | Brian Boyd, Tao Techakanon |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Warning! Stainless steel bolts are suspect near the coast!
Details
You can read about the warning here. There is extensive rebolting being done by the Thaitanium Project, which has already rebolted the vast majority of popular routes in the main areas. Be informed!
Description
Mark would say that this climb takes you into "the tufa zone." Wild, melting features dominate the center of this wall and this route goes right through the middle of it all.
P1: Start under the giant tufas and climb up through them, exiting left onto a large ledge. (You could also start on Snuffalufagus, probably a good idea).
P2: Head up and right on pockets and tufas, excellent pitch.
P3: Continue up and right to a belay under a huge stalactite. Look left into the dark, overhanging "hunchback" for a wild view of tufas and stalactites.
P4: Exit the belay to the right and head straight up, pulling through some steep crux moves just before the chains.
Descent... we rapped the route w/ a 70 but there has been some work done on this wall since then. There is probably a more direct descent option now, as rapping the route w/o getting your rope stuck is tricky.
P1: Start under the giant tufas and climb up through them, exiting left onto a large ledge. (You could also start on Snuffalufagus, probably a good idea).
P2: Head up and right on pockets and tufas, excellent pitch.
P3: Continue up and right to a belay under a huge stalactite. Look left into the dark, overhanging "hunchback" for a wild view of tufas and stalactites.
P4: Exit the belay to the right and head straight up, pulling through some steep crux moves just before the chains.
Descent... we rapped the route w/ a 70 but there has been some work done on this wall since then. There is probably a more direct descent option now, as rapping the route w/o getting your rope stuck is tricky.
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