The rock here is basalt, probably not as perfect as what you will see at Paradise Forks, but if you are looking for an after work route this is a good place to come to. Routes range from 5.7 to 5.11. The belays are a little steep so make sure you don't fall before the first bolt, you will need a spotter.
Getting There
Lookout Mountain is located a couple of blocks south of the crossroad of 16th Street and Greenway, To get there go south from the intersection of 16th Street and Greenway and continue south untill you get to the parking lot. From there go onto trail 108 and then go onto trail 150, continue on the trail, dont go off of the trail, stay on marked trails only, continue untill you reach a fork and go right, there will also be a boulder there that will identify this. From there hike up a little bit and take one of the climbers trails to the left, hike up to the cliff side and the routes are right there.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lookout Mountain:
Be EXTREMELY cautious about the parking lot here. I have seen one and heard of another break-in and this Sunday was a victim myself. Smashed window and stolen items.
I do not see Devil In Disguise listed here. My son and I climbed it on 3-10-09. It is immediately left of Totally Trad and is a 5.10. The crux is the first few moves depending on climber height (I'm 5'5"). It requires a pull up, raising feet under the roof to take weight off hands and arms, repositioning hands up, and repositioning feet to a stable stance. Use a spotter because the first bolt is useless. It is the devil in disguise.
Someone has added two bolts about three feet off the ground immediately to the right of Devil in Disguise. The bolts have no hangers and look like they are designed for removable holds. Why put in the bolts? Why not carry a step ladder and leave the rock alone. If these bolts are for holds, the holds eliminate the 5.10 start. What is this climber(?) thinking about?
my guess is they were for a belay anchor. Queen creek has a few of those on some precaroius beay stations. But often climbers deo they debate on such eddicit so they remove the hanger or chop off the heads. Just a guess though. Often "retro" bolting is frowned upon because it takes away from the heart of the origional intent for the climb. Its like if you cant do it the way it was designed, dont eff with it and leave it to its origional design. So i agree with you its silly. If someone is so affraid to fall there that they needed to add belay anchors, they probably shouldnt be climbing there.
Bring your helmet and wear it here. Lots of loose rock at the top. Exploring hikers and top roping climbers can easily knock rock loose without any warning.
Ken my guess about the hangerless bolts - they are for emergency personnel put in by the city in the event of a rescue. They can remove the cap screw and thread in a eyelet or attach a hanger. I imagine a liter carry would get pretty ugly down that steep rocky section without a belay line for a stokes basket. Similar bolts are all over camel back on the SAR boulder right off the main trail on top of the monk and I believe a there are even a couple at the top of pedricks chimney.
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