Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Lookout Mountain Crag

Select Route:
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers" T,TR 
5.10a Face S 
5.7 Arete TR 
5.7 Dihedral T,TR 
5.7 Face TR 
5.8 Crack T,TR 
5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void" T,TR 
5.9 Face S 
Changing Corners TR 
Shake 'N' Bake T,S 

Lookout Mountain Crag 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.749, -105.2426 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 48,337
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Darrin Stein on Feb 12, 2002
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
The parking for the crag.

Description 

This crag has dark granite (I think), and it is approximately 65' high and the same in width. There are two sport and four trad climbs with multiple TRs in between. There are two sets of two bolt anchors on the face, above the roof. It's a stretch to set up a TR on those, so be careful.

L->R:

A. 5.7 Face, 7, 1p, gear or TR.
B. 5.7 Dihedral, 7, 1p, gear.
C. 5.7 Arete, 7, 1p, TR.
D. 5.9 Crack aka "Into the Void", 9, 1p, 60', gear.
E. 5.10a Face, 10-, 1p, bolts.
F. 5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers", 10- C0/A0-1, 1p, gear.
G. 5.9 Face, 9, 1p, bolts.
H. 5.8 Crack, 8, 1p, 45', gear.

Eds. Beware of rattlesnakes here!


Getting There 

From US 6, take Lookout Mountain road 1.7 miles to a parking pullout on the right side. If that is full, go around the switchback and pull off on the left side. The trail goes East of the first pullout mentioned and puts you on top of the crag. From there you can go left and down to the base. The trail down is loose, so be cautious.


10 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',4],['5.8',2],['5.9',2],['5.10',2],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Lookout Mountain Crag:
5.7 Dihedral   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   
Changing Corners   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
5.8 Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50'   
5.9 Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
5.10a Face   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   
5.10 Crack aka "Thin Fingers"   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b C1     Trad, TR, Aid, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Classics in Lookout Mountain Crag

Featured Route For Lookout Mountain Crag
Renee O. climbing a 5.7 while 7 months pregnant. Arete at Lookout mountain

5.7 Arete 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  CO : Golden : Lookout Mountain Crag
Climb the arete on the far left side of the main face. This beautiful (but short) arete has about ten really nice reachy moves between positive edges and dishes, with two or three nice undercling moves to finish on a bushy ledge. You can make the route A LOT harder by starting in the big dihedral around the corner to the left and then moving up and right onto the arete. Lower off from the bushy ledge, or move right and turn the roof at the top of the 5.8 crack on huge jugs. The roof is harder ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Lookout Mountain Crag
Local Shops
A true mountain shop, located in the shadow of Boulder's Flatirons.
Gear that has the best chance of improving your outdoor experience.
Closeouts and cosmetic 2nds at below wholesale prices.
News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   4
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

[ Read All News ]
Upcoming Events
no events scheduled
Photos of Lookout Mountain Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Quick guide.
BETA PHOTO: Quick guide.
Lookout Mountain Crag. Most of the routes are on this face and the 5.6 dihedral route is around the corner on the far left.
BETA PHOTO: Lookout Mountain Crag. Most of the routes are on t...
Isabel on route, Frank belaying, and Unknown Kid.
Isabel on route, Frank belaying, and Unknown Kid.
Lookout Mountain Crag - Routes E thru H.
BETA PHOTO: Lookout Mountain Crag - Routes E thru H.
Sean Topp taking the quick way down.
Sean Topp taking the quick way down.
5.8 crack.
5.8 crack.
What a great view from the Lookout mountain Crag on an early climb before work...awesome!
What a great view from the Lookout mountain Crag o...
Comments on Lookout Mountain Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2012
By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
Feb 13, 2002

I believe the granite here is metamorphosed. It creates interesting patterns in the rock that make the climbing interesting. It is definitely different than the South Platte and Boulder Canyon. The few routes here are short, so don't plan on making a day of it. But if you in the Golden area, have some quick burns and then head to the Golden City Brewery. Fun stuff.

By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Feb 16, 2002

And-keep your eyes open for rattlesnakes. My buddy Andy just about stepped on one last summer. These guys are about an inch in diameter and two feet long. When they coil up on the ground they look just like a little, dark green, cow pie. They are very hard to see.

By Matt White
Feb 20, 2002

Last year somebody placed a number of new unnecessary bolts on this crag. Several of the bolts were partially placed, then abandoned. Maybe the bolter was using his short little pr#%k as a depth-gage?

Anyway, I just removed several of these bolts, and filled in about ten partially-drilled holes. From now on, if you want to toprope this slab, sling a damn tree.

And don't let me catch you (whoever you were) practicing to be a Sport Park grid-bolter on this crag. If I do catch you, we will be having an unpleasant discussion about spreading your filth were others have been happliy climbing since before you were a glimmer in your dad-uncle's eye.

Cheers.

By Matt White
Feb 27, 2002

Golden climbers (and particularly students from the School of Mines) have been teaching people to climb at this crag for decades. It is small, but it is very special to a lot of people. We'd like to keep it that way. Please respect the area and the rock. Pack out your bottles and trash, and PLEASE leave the bolt kit at home. Thanks.

By Matt Rutledge
Feb 28, 2002

This is one of the greatest rocks I've ever had a chance to play on. It has just about everything. The approach is about thirty seconds to the top of the rock. Once there you can rap down (if there is an open anchor), or scrable down a nice gully. The climbing is great. Everything from cracks to thin face moves. Almost everything has a roof to work your way over. Long slings will enable you to TR just about every route on the rock. A little gear will make it even better. (Please don't plug every placement for one anchor...)

I too was shocked to see a bunch of new bolt anchors last summer. The new anchor on top of the easy slab furthest east was a nice touch. I was never patient enough to get a good anchor set up there. The others seemed redundant. I was also confused why the bolter didn't bother to retro bolt the bottom bolt on the western most sport climb. You can tell where the bolt used to be, and if you take the bottom most start to the route, it gets a little run out at the bottom.

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 20, 2002

Today, I saw a rattlesnake at the bottom of the crag. It was very large and rattling. It was near the bushes. Be careful!!

By Anonymous Coward
Jun 28, 2002

By the way this rock is not granite it is gneiss. A very highly metomophosed rock. Just thought I would point that out since people seem confused about the rock type. By the way I agree with Matt keep your bolt kit at home.

By Steve Matthys
May 9, 2003

[Ed. Note - Moved from duplicate posting]

Details: This area has just about everything: trad, sport, top rope, and aid. The rock is of ver high quality. The crag was a very short approach, 30 seconds off the road. It has very good beginner cracks to toprope, a 5.10 finger crack that you can clean aid at a very easy A1, a few sport routes in the 5.9-5.11 difficulty. This place has just about everything in a fairly small area, so it is a great place to take friends that climb at different levels.'

Get There: Follow 6th Ave into Golden and turn left on 19th St (at the stop light). Follow 19th as it winds its way up though the neighborhood and onto the mountain itself. The crags are on the north side of the Mountain, about 1.8 miles up the road. There are small pulloffs on both sides of the road and a path leading down to the crags, follow the path for 30ft to the top of the cliff. You can either set up a rappel from the bolts or walk down to the base. Note: If you go below the huge "M" on the mountain then you have gone to far.

By Anonymous Coward
Oct 18, 2003
Gear Alert

Seems to me that some of the cold shut anchors up top could due with replacement...Would anyone be upset if I were to replace them. Most notaly, the cold shuts atop the 5.10a face climb. One is VERY rusted and the other is spun.

By Anonymous Coward
Jul 28, 2004

Was climbing last tues. morning at a large group of kids from the Colorado Academy. 8 12 year olds showed up to climb they set up a bunch of top ropes the two instructors were talking about placing a bunch of new bolts so it will be easier to set up top ropes. I told them that this spot didn't need any bolts but they really didn't care.

By Bryan Kulla
From: Arvada, CO
Jun 10, 2006

I noticed it has been a while since someone posted here. Is this area still able to be climbed?

By Louis Marketos
Jul 17, 2006

It's still there and open to climbing. I was there recently. There was a group from CMC there who had topropes set up on all the climbs except the 5.7 Face and Dihedral. They were friendly enough and offered to let us climb on their ropes so it wasn't too bad despite being crowded.
I had a new climber with me and the 5.7 Face was great for teaching him to trust his shoes.

By Alan Klein
Jul 28, 2006

Several of the route descriptions on the list describe the same obvious routes, but with different ratings.
A good photo of the entire crag, with numbers, would help narrow this down a bit. Sorry, I didn't bring a camera with me yesterday.
Alan

By Lee Smith
Aug 2, 2006

Alan, I agree. How can a small crag with maybe 6 routes have 12 routes listed, all with different ratings?

I will take a camera and see if I can identify the routes better.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Sep 28, 2006

Fun "little" spot with surprisingly nice rock. Zero approach. In 2 hours' time, you can pretty much climb every variation possible.

By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 19, 2007

I took my nephew up here today and I must admit it's a really great little crag. The rock quality is fantastic and for a 12 year old it's got it all. Easy trad leads, a stiffer sport climb, and a fun roof to boot. For some reason it reminded me of some climbs I've done in north Wales. Similar rock I would guess.

By uncasid
Jun 17, 2007

I left some gear on the big overhang climb. If anyone found it, please let me know. We came back within 10 mins and it was gone.

By Chris Chaney
From: Arvada, Colorado
Feb 27, 2008

Why is this called "Lookout Mountain" crag if it is actually on Mount Zion?

By Brian Tessier
From: Lakehood, Colorado
Feb 28, 2008

I believe Jeffco open space refers to it as the "Car Crash Crag"

By GeoffElson
Sep 26, 2008

This crag has great rock quality and the trad here is really fun, but beware of crowds and bullshit top-rope anchors to climb around.

By Robert Pearson
Jun 22, 2009

Climbing Sunday at Lookout Mountain, Golden, Alan stepped on what looked like good rock on the Hard Smear route, just left of the Hand/Foot Crack (this is "H" on the Mtn Project page). It broke off, sending a 'large piece of flake' about 20 feet into us. Amazingly it went between four of us and stopped after hitting a pack. Alan et al tapped the remaining rock flake and discovered a 12" by 4' or so section that is hollow underneath, just waiting for a hard smear step to break it off and nail a belayer.

Second rock problem is the large slab just right of the Hand/Foot Crack (again "H"). The reason there are slabs in the first place is 'years ago' the bottom part of the slabs have broken off, leaving a fun slab to climb up and over. Unfortunately the slab in question has had enough freeze-thaw cycles to begin to look like it 'might' break loose. In addition the top of the slab has a delta piece that John was able to rock when he grabbed it, so it is 'loose and balanced'. The delta piece is 2000-3000 pounds; the complete slab is 20,000 pounds, more or less.

Alan marked both the flake and the delta slab with chalk "X". But chalk washes off.

I hope to contact the county et al about taking my little 5# sledge and breaking the flake off. The delta 'might' be movable with a crowbar. The full slab is another problem. Remember some of the rock slides in Yosemite that buried camping climbers ?

By Greg D
From: Here
Jun 23, 2009

If you need a sledge, maybe it is not ready to come off. Be careful, wear a helmut and never hang out below other climbers.

By Robert Pearson
Sep 7, 2009

Found: Flashlight at base of cliff. Identify to claim. Topropecmc@aol.com

By Stubby-Ian
From: Denver, CO
May 29, 2010

Just curious which way the crag faces. IE, does it have summer shade? or Winter Sun?

By Casey Bernal
From: Arvada, CO
May 30, 2010

The crag faces North - no winter sun, good summer shade (except midday sun can be in your eyes...).

By Michael Slater
From: Denver
Jul 5, 2011

Was there yesterday from about 10:30 till 3 and it is a great little area. We had climbers ranging from first time in a harness to a climber who has a guide service and all had a blast. The approach can be a bit sketchy as you have to climb down some steep rocks, bring some approach shoes. The area is shady in the morning and even late in the afternoon there are places to get out of the sun.

WARNING, on the 5.10a face there were two loose bolts. I think they were the second and fourth. The climber was able to finger tighten them and continue (not recommended). We didnít have a wrench, so please consider bringing one if you are headed up shortly.

By Eben Daggett
From: Boulder, CO
May 31, 2012

Was here today. PLEASE be very aware and careful and bring a snake bite kit. Had a run in with a HUGE and AGGRESSIVE rattlesnake today. Luckily, no one was bit, but he was chillin' in a bush on the main trail down from the road to the top anchors. He was rattling like crazy and attempted a strike on my leg. Please be safe.