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Looking to climb some towers.

Original Post
Christopher Alan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 5

Heading out to Moab area this spring with the girlfriend and looking to climb a tower or two. She has never done much multi-pitch or crack climbing, but is a real strong sport/boulderer. Anyone have any recommendations for easier tower, multi-pitches, or intro climbs in the area to get her familiar with some of the systems, technique, and to go over a few things before trying to tackle larger endeavors? Thanks!

Dow Williams · · St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 240
Molar Tower, Root Canal, 5.8 bolted chimney one pitch, on River Road, no approach
Owl Rock, Olevsky Route, 5.8 crack one pitch (scramble to the summit and back down to the chains), Arches NP, no approach
Dark Angel, West Face, 5.10 free or aid one move and call it 5.9 (one or two moves) two pitch, Arches NP, incredible (but popular) hike
Looking Glass Rock, 5.7, 3 pitches, between Moab and the Creek, no approach, exceptional free air rappel
South Six Shooter, South Face, 5.7, 3 Pitches, Indian Creek Area, calorie burning approach
Ancient Art, Stolen Chimney, 5.9 (one move of A0 or 5.10), 4 Pitches, Fisher Towers, short approach, very popular, best early or late mid-week. Takes me an 1.5hrs to climb and rap if no one is around. Could be there all day if behind the wrong folks.
The Three Penguins, Right Chimney, 5.10, one pitch route (written up as two, best to combine), Arches NP, short fun approach, great tower summit...short wide section, she might have issues with it...bring a #5 for her to yank on
Tonka Tower, West Face, 5.8, AO, two pitch route, Arches NP, short approach
Lizard Rock, 5.8, one pitch route, Fishers, no approach, fun summit

Here are the towers in order geographically, west to east

Enjoy and good luck with the trip...
Frank Stein · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Dow, nice selection. Would also add North Chimney on Castleton and Otto's Route on Independence.

Christopher Alan · · Minneapolis, MN · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 5

Awesome! Thanks so much for advice. I will definitely look into all of the climbs listed.

Cheers!

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
the schmuck wrote:...and Otto's Route on Independence.
Just a reminder to the OP that this route is in the Colorado National Monument outside of Grand Junction CO, about 1.5 hrs from Moab. For that matter, South Six Shooter peak (and anything else in Indian Creek) is also around an hour drive from Moab to the start of the stout, aerobic approach. Of course around here, that's just down the street a little bit!
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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