Beautiful sandstone formation with a huge amphitheater and large window.
Take Highway 191 south of Moab for ~23-25 miles (<1 mile past La Sal Junction). You are looking for a gravel road on your right (west) known as Hatch Wash road. Turn right and travel west 1.4 miles.
Option 1: (May not be passable depending on recent rains) Turn left onto a deep sand 'road' for 0.3 miles. Before a ranch fence, turn right and follow the 'road' to the base of Looking Glass. 10 second approach.
Option 2: Continue on the road and take a left just after passing Looking Glass rock. Park at the side of the road.
3 pitch bolted route (sparse) up the SW ridge. Absolutely amazing 100% free-hanging rappel down through the amphitheater! Need two 50m ropes for the rap. Beware rattlesnakes at the base of the climb!...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
easy climbing even with the run out. we had to take the ranch road because the other road had equipment stuck in it. turns out if you have a 4x4 thats the ticket. you can park at the start of the climb. also no worries about getting to the rap anchors. we just did an easy walk around to them. absolutely no need to rap or lower to them.
Three friends and I climbed this on Janurary 8th which was a beautiful day, and made for pleasent "climbing" and an awesome rappel. This landform has probably the most thrilling rappel I have ever been on. However, the main purpose of my post is say that we built a cairn and added a modest summit register. It is at the very highest point of the rock(which requires more scrambling after the last pitch) in a bottle. We had a fun relaxing time on this as a rest day climb after a nerve racking, snowy epic on Castleton the previous day. Hope to see lots of entries the next time I'm up there.
We showed up to climb this today and there were approx. 20 rattle snakes lining the small shelf around the base of the route. There was one (about 3 feet long) sitting right in a small hole right at the start of the route that would easily strike the hand or leg of anyone climbing the route. We tried to move it with a stick and it only made it angry so we packed back up and left. Be careful!
I am headed there this weekend and don't have a 70m rope. I think I will do a biner block and tie whatever gear/pack I have to the other end as a counterweight. If the rap is free hanging the other end of the rope should come right down once I am off rappel at the bottom. In theory anyway.
We were there last month. The RATTLE SNAKE warning above is no joke. There were a couple of adults right at the start of the climb and about 10 juveniles all over starting under the rocks where you jump over the fence.
On 11/1/13 the first dirt road to the start of the "Regular Route" (aka "East Rib") was passable for high clearance 4x4, but not regular cars.
From the top, members of our party saw anchors and bolts on the south rib, the extension directly above the arch, and decided we should give it a try. 1st pitch was low 5th class up a crack system starting on the SE side of the south rib (no bolts), ending at a series of 6 bolted anchors, two with slings and a link for rapping, + one old ring piton, on a flat bench south of the arch. Rib steepened here, steeper and narrower than east rib, with crumbly rock, suspect pro, and long way to first bolt, so we bailed. Single rope rap with 60 m rope takes you to base of west side.