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Looking Glass Rock

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Looking Glass Rock  

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Location: 38.2754, -109.4052 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,165
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Nathan Tomlin on Aug 16, 2010  with updates from cstebbins024
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Beautiful sandstone formation with a huge amphitheater and large window.

Getting There 

Take Highway 191 south of Moab for ~23-25 miles (<1 mile past La Sal Junction). You are looking for a gravel road on your right (west) signed as LOOKING GLASS ROAD (used to be called Hatch Wash road). Turn right and travel west 1.4 miles.
  • Option 1: (May not be passable depending on recent rains) Turn left onto a deep sand 'road' for 0.3 miles. Before a ranch fence, turn right and follow the 'road' to the base of Looking Glass. 10 second approach.
  • Option 2: Continue on the road and take a left just after passing Looking Glass rock. Park at the side of the road.

Climbing Season

Weather station 8.7 miles from here

1 Total Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Looking Glass Rock:
Regular Route   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13     Sport, 3 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Classics in Looking Glass Rock

Featured Route For Looking Glass Rock
Looking glass rock - view of rap station from insi...

Regular Route 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13  UT : Moab Area : ... : Looking Glass Rock
AKA- East Rib: 3 pitch bolted route (sparse) up the SW ridge. Absolutely amazing 100% free-hanging rappel down through the amphitheater! Need two 50m ropes for the rap. Beware rattlesnakes at the base of the climb!...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

Photos of Looking Glass Rock Slideshow Add Photo
low on the route
low on the route
I almost droped the extra rope we brought on the r...
I almost droped the extra rope we brought on the r...
Pam Sederburg on the awesome rappel
Pam Sederburg on the awesome rappel
the namesake hole on the looking glass
the namesake hole on the looking glass
the 1st pitch
the 1st pitch
you have to do the swing. leave the rope in after ...
you have to do the swing. leave the rope in after ...

Comments on Looking Glass Rock Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 10, 2014
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 16, 2010
I found out about the rock from 2 other webpages and stole the great info they had:
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 17, 2010
Saw some pitons for climbing the obvious crack inside the amphitheater leading to the rap station - anyone know what that climb is?
By paul bucher
From: moab, utah
Sep 20, 2011
easy climbing even with the run out. we had to take the ranch road because the other road had equipment stuck in it. turns out if you have a 4x4 thats the ticket. you can park at the start of the climb. also no worries about getting to the rap anchors. we just did an easy walk around to them. absolutely no need to rap or lower to them.
By Isaac Dority
Jan 16, 2012
Three friends and I climbed this on Janurary 8th which was a beautiful day, and made for pleasent "climbing" and an awesome rappel. This landform has probably the most thrilling rappel I have ever been on. However, the main purpose of my post is say that we built a cairn and added a modest summit register. It is at the very highest point of the rock(which requires more scrambling after the last pitch) in a bottle. We had a fun relaxing time on this as a rest day climb after a nerve racking, snowy epic on Castleton the previous day. Hope to see lots of entries the next time I'm up there.
By Brian C.
From: Longmont, CO
Apr 22, 2012

We showed up to climb this today and there were approx. 20 rattle snakes lining the small shelf around the base of the route. There was one (about 3 feet long) sitting right in a small hole right at the start of the route that would easily strike the hand or leg of anyone climbing the route. We tried to move it with a stick and it only made it angry so we packed back up and left. Be careful!
By Reggie7
Nov 6, 2012
is it possible to access this with a high clearance 2 wheel drive vehicle? wasnt sure after reading about the "deep sand" Thanks!
By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Nov 7, 2012
Easy access even with a low-rider Civic. There's a good gravel road that gets you within 100 feet of the formation.
By Reggie7
Nov 8, 2012
awesome thanks! looks like a sweet little outing
By rging
From: Salt Lake City, Ut
Apr 19, 2013
I am headed there this weekend and don't have a 70m rope. I think I will do a biner block and tie whatever gear/pack I have to the other end as a counterweight. If the rap is free hanging the other end of the rope should come right down once I am off rappel at the bottom. In theory anyway.
By rr12
Jul 5, 2013
We were there last month. The RATTLE SNAKE warning above is no joke. There were a couple of adults right at the start of the climb and about 10 juveniles all over starting under the rocks where you jump over the fence.
By Jeff R. Hansen
Oct 3, 2013
Leave the rappel up and do a swing afterwards!
By Nathan Tomlin
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 17, 2013
Wow, definitely RATTLE SNAKES live in holes at the base of the climb. Be careful! See comments and picture on the page for the climb.
By Steven Reneau
Nov 5, 2013
On 11/1/13 the first dirt road to the start of the "Regular Route" (aka "East Rib") was passable for high clearance 4x4, but not regular cars.

From the top, members of our party saw anchors and bolts on the south rib, the extension directly above the arch, and decided we should give it a try. 1st pitch was low 5th class up a crack system starting on the SE side of the south rib (no bolts), ending at a series of 6 bolted anchors, two with slings and a link for rapping, + one old ring piton, on a flat bench south of the arch. Rib steepened here, steeper and narrower than east rib, with crumbly rock, suspect pro, and long way to first bolt, so we bailed. Single rope rap with 60 m rope takes you to base of west side.
By cstebbins024
From: Laramie, WY
Oct 10, 2014
The road into Looking Glass Rock is now called Looking Glass Road. The former name doesn't show up on Google Maps app.
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