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Looking for some crag advice in or around yosemite valley
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Jul 2, 2013
Hi all, visiting yosemite soon with the girlfriend. Im relatively new to trad and am comfortable leading in the 5.7 to 5.8 range but climb 5.10-5.11 sport confidently, i was wondering if anyone had some advice on some good single pitch climbing area's preferably with short/shorter approaches and bolted anchors for belay/rap (not as confident in my anchor building as my leading on trad yet) any help would be greatly appreciated Hand.jammin
Joined Feb 2, 2013
13 points
Administrator
Jul 2, 2013
Swan slabs, maybe manure pile. There really isn't much within your skill set in Yosemite. Winter time climbing opens a few more options (too hot now).
You'll probably enjoy visiting somewhere else more, for climbing anyway.
Salamanizer
From Vacaville Ca.
Joined Sep 1, 2005
2,604 points
Administrator
Jul 2, 2013
Artist Tears P3
Check out the Cookie Sheet as well.

supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yo...
John McNamee
From Littleton, CO
Joined Jul 29, 2002
1,913 points
Jul 2, 2013
OTL
Tuolumne has bolt only routes and it won't be 100 degrees.
Still need nuts to lead some of them, though ;)
Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Joined Oct 20, 2010
368 points
Jul 3, 2013
thanks for the advice everyone, the cookie sheet looks decent is it really run out though? also would like to check out tuolumne any suggestions? ...I have a full trad rack so im confident placing gear up to 5.8 just havent built too many of my own anchors for multi pitch, my crag has bolt anchors at the top of most routes. Hand.jammin
Joined Feb 2, 2013
13 points
Jul 3, 2013
swan slab seems premium for what i was looking for thanks for the suggestion Hand.jammin
Joined Feb 2, 2013
13 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
five open books área is good , Munginella being a stellar climb event though only 5.6 its a classic . There is more moderate cragging there too. Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
craghead wrote:
five open books área is good , Munginella being a stellar climb event though only 5.6 its a classic . There is more moderate cragging there too.

pro is ABUNDANT. and its next to a waterfall, no you will not get wet
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
craghead thanks for the advice, munginella looks like a sick 1st multi pitch for me to take her on, are the belay areas bolted or would i be building anchors? Hand.jammin
Joined Feb 2, 2013
13 points
Jul 3, 2013
a picture of rocks
The first pitch of the enigma is pretty cool and overlooked. Just to the right of where the trail meets the wall at the cookie is this tall pitch of 5.8 triple cracks with a little bit of everything. Also check out Jam Crack 5.7 (which is not so overlooked), uncle (5.7) and aunt (5.8) fannies are worth checking too. josh holmes
Joined Sep 5, 2008
211 points
Jul 3, 2013
craghead wrote:
pro is ABUNDANT. and its next to a waterfall, no you will not get wet


Did you just quote yourself?
BSheriden
Joined May 18, 2013
3 points
Jul 3, 2013
Not comfortable setting a gear anchor but you feel comfortable climbing above single pieces....

Dude just take one day to practice anchors.

If you don't feel comfortable setting gear anchors honestly you aren't ready to lead in Yosemite.
NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
ha! if lead in Yosemite anybody can! Dude put your girlfriend on first pitch and let here set a station on a small ledge to the left in a dihedral before you hand traverse to right. You takes the second pitch. Rap off a tree. Make sure climb early morning , i mean EARLY. Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
Hand.jammin wrote:
craghead thanks for the advice, munginella looks like a sick 1st multi pitch for me to take her on, are the belay areas bolted or would i be building anchors?

dont go to the bolts on right or you will be faced with a run out slab. Stick to the comfy dihedral crack on left. Dont go to the dirty bushy section on left but hand traverse to right and you will see a good p2 crack on left in the corner
thats me leading it
thats me leading it
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
as you see I had to traverse back to the corner cos i made a mistake and went to bolts Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
have her or you set the station just where i am now . You will see it clearly when you get there Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
alright cool thanks crag head, will a 60m rope get us back to the bottom on a rappel?? and yes as wild as it sounds i feel confident climbing above single pieces ( have taken falls confidently on to my gear) but have no belay anchor building experience or anyone to learn from, ive read john longs book in and out and know what to do just want to go with someone to check my work before i hang mine and her life on it, dont know if this makes any sense (could it be john long psyches you out so bad in his book Im just questioning my self? cuz i can lay bomber pieces and can rig a sliding x/equallete/cordellete just fine) Thanks for the help everyone much appreciated Hand.jammin
Joined Feb 2, 2013
13 points
Jul 3, 2013
RJN
One 60m WILL NOT get you down. The walk off isn't bad though. About half way, as you come to the wet slabs there is a "shortcut" rap that a 60m will get you back to trail level.

Also, you can belay off of trees or gear you choice. Pretty much belay from anywhere. 1st 2 pitches seem kinda weak. The prize awaits you at the last 40m of the climb where it makes it a classic.
Ryan N
From Bellingham, WA
Joined May 21, 2009
183 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
Mr. Stone ^^ is right we had twins as you see in the pic. Borrow a second rope or bring a tagline to retrieve your single . You look for the bolted station for second rap. That will be a perfect first multipitch!
The station is just bolts so bring a leaver ...there are trees there too , may wanna bring a tat kit, just in case
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
you need to build gear anchors on munginella. don't underestimate the grades in Yosemite.

cookie sheet will be HOT.

buy a guide book and don't rely on internet pictures to guide you up a route.

splitclimber
Joined Jan 22, 2007
45 points
Jul 3, 2013
right on, will two 60m ropes get us down in that case? i can borrow one, and whats a good guidebook to pick up???.. i just scheduled a meet up with a guide next week for some anchor building before the trip (dont wanna cut corners or be restricted from some great climbing). thanks for the advice everyone Hand.jammin
Joined Feb 2, 2013
13 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
Hand.jammin wrote:
right on, will two 60m ropes get us down in that case? i can borrow one, and whats a good guidebook to pick up???.. i just scheduled a meet up with a guide next week for some anchor building before the trip (dont wanna cut corners or be restricted from some great climbing). thanks for the advice everyone

yep two 60s will do. Yosemite Valley free climbs by Chris McNamara and Super topo is the best. Looks like you have an awesome adventure trip coming up! You guys enjoy! Dont forget to stop by the climbing shop!
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
the book
the book
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 3, 2013
Pro tip: Don't take any advice from Elanor (craghead) NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Joined Oct 6, 2011
116 points
Jul 3, 2013
me
NorCalNomad wrote:
Pro tip: Don't take any advice from Elanor (craghead)

hahahaha....yey grasshopper! so who is the pro? drop Da Name! so did you not pass the lead belay test either?
Ellenore Zimmerman
Joined May 25, 2013
75 points
Jul 4, 2013
Leading Desperado, 5.10a, Joshua Tree, CA
NorCalNomad wrote:
Not comfortable setting a gear anchor but you feel comfortable climbing above single pieces.... Dude just take one day to practice anchors. If you don't feel comfortable setting gear anchors honestly you aren't ready to lead in Yosemite.


+1

If you do not feel comfortable making an anchor, you should not feel that comfortable placing gear either. I'd strongly recommend taking an anchor lesson with the Yosemite Rock Climbing School/Guides yosemitepark.com/rock-climbing... Also, they could guide you guys up something and help teach you more about placing pro and building anchors.

Yosemite is no-joke. Be safe and err on the side of caution. If you don't do your own anchors, or don't feel comfortable, seriously consider hiring someone to help you bridge the gap.
Angie C
From Sacramento, Ca
Joined Oct 28, 2011
48 points


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