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Looking for some crag advice in or around yosemite valley
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By Hand.jammin
Jul 2, 2013

Hi all, visiting yosemite soon with the girlfriend. Im relatively new to trad and am comfortable leading in the 5.7 to 5.8 range but climb 5.10-5.11 sport confidently, i was wondering if anyone had some advice on some good single pitch climbing area's preferably with short/shorter approaches and bolted anchors for belay/rap (not as confident in my anchor building as my leading on trad yet) any help would be greatly appreciated


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Jul 2, 2013

Swan slabs, maybe manure pile. There really isn't much within your skill set in Yosemite. Winter time climbing opens a few more options (too hot now).
You'll probably enjoy visiting somewhere else more, for climbing anyway.


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By John McNamee
Administrator
From Littleton, CO
Jul 2, 2013
Artist Tears P3

Check out the Cookie Sheet as well.

www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Yosemite-Valley-Cookie-Sheet>>>


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By Matt N
From Santa Barbara, CA
Jul 2, 2013
OTL

Tuolumne has bolt only routes and it won't be 100 degrees.
Still need nuts to lead some of them, though ;)


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By Hand.jammin
Jul 3, 2013

thanks for the advice everyone, the cookie sheet looks decent is it really run out though? also would like to check out tuolumne any suggestions? ...I have a full trad rack so im confident placing gear up to 5.8 just havent built too many of my own anchors for multi pitch, my crag has bolt anchors at the top of most routes.


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By Hand.jammin
Jul 3, 2013

swan slab seems premium for what i was looking for thanks for the suggestion


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

five open books área is good , Munginella being a stellar climb event though only 5.6 its a classic . There is more moderate cragging there too.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

craghead wrote:
five open books área is good , Munginella being a stellar climb event though only 5.6 its a classic . There is more moderate cragging there too.

pro is ABUNDANT. and its next to a waterfall, no you will not get wet


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By Hand.jammin
Jul 3, 2013

craghead thanks for the advice, munginella looks like a sick 1st multi pitch for me to take her on, are the belay areas bolted or would i be building anchors?


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By josh holmes
Jul 3, 2013
a picture of rocks

The first pitch of the enigma is pretty cool and overlooked. Just to the right of where the trail meets the wall at the cookie is this tall pitch of 5.8 triple cracks with a little bit of everything. Also check out Jam Crack 5.7 (which is not so overlooked), uncle (5.7) and aunt (5.8) fannies are worth checking too.


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By BSheriden
Jul 3, 2013

craghead wrote:
pro is ABUNDANT. and its next to a waterfall, no you will not get wet


Did you just quote yourself?


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jul 3, 2013

Not comfortable setting a gear anchor but you feel comfortable climbing above single pieces....

Dude just take one day to practice anchors.

If you don't feel comfortable setting gear anchors honestly you aren't ready to lead in Yosemite.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

ha! if lead in Yosemite anybody can! Dude put your girlfriend on first pitch and let here set a station on a small ledge to the left in a dihedral before you hand traverse to right. You takes the second pitch. Rap off a tree. Make sure climb early morning , i mean EARLY.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

Hand.jammin wrote:
craghead thanks for the advice, munginella looks like a sick 1st multi pitch for me to take her on, are the belay areas bolted or would i be building anchors?

dont go to the bolts on right or you will be faced with a run out slab. Stick to the comfy dihedral crack on left. Dont go to the dirty bushy section on left but hand traverse to right and you will see a good p2 crack on left in the corner
thats me leading it
thats me leading it


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

as you see I had to traverse back to the corner cos i made a mistake and went to bolts


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

have her or you set the station just where i am now . You will see it clearly when you get there


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By Hand.jammin
Jul 3, 2013

alright cool thanks crag head, will a 60m rope get us back to the bottom on a rappel?? and yes as wild as it sounds i feel confident climbing above single pieces ( have taken falls confidently on to my gear) but have no belay anchor building experience or anyone to learn from, ive read john longs book in and out and know what to do just want to go with someone to check my work before i hang mine and her life on it, dont know if this makes any sense (could it be john long psyches you out so bad in his book Im just questioning my self? cuz i can lay bomber pieces and can rig a sliding x/equallete/cordellete just fine) Thanks for the help everyone much appreciated


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By Ryan N
From San Louis Obispo
Jul 3, 2013
RJN

One 60m WILL NOT get you down. The walk off isn't bad though. About half way, as you come to the wet slabs there is a "shortcut" rap that a 60m will get you back to trail level.

Also, you can belay off of trees or gear you choice. Pretty much belay from anywhere. 1st 2 pitches seem kinda weak. The prize awaits you at the last 40m of the climb where it makes it a classic.


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

Mr. Stone ^^ is right we had twins as you see in the pic. Borrow a second rope or bring a tagline to retrieve your single . You look for the bolted station for second rap. That will be a perfect first multipitch!
The station is just bolts so bring a leaver ...there are trees there too , may wanna bring a tat kit, just in case


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By splitclimber
Jul 3, 2013

you need to build gear anchors on munginella. don't underestimate the grades in Yosemite.

cookie sheet will be HOT.

buy a guide book and don't rely on internet pictures to guide you up a route.


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By Hand.jammin
Jul 3, 2013

right on, will two 60m ropes get us down in that case? i can borrow one, and whats a good guidebook to pick up???.. i just scheduled a meet up with a guide next week for some anchor building before the trip (dont wanna cut corners or be restricted from some great climbing). thanks for the advice everyone


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

Hand.jammin wrote:
right on, will two 60m ropes get us down in that case? i can borrow one, and whats a good guidebook to pick up???.. i just scheduled a meet up with a guide next week for some anchor building before the trip (dont wanna cut corners or be restricted from some great climbing). thanks for the advice everyone

yep two 60s will do. Yosemite Valley free climbs by Chris McNamara and Super topo is the best. Looks like you have an awesome adventure trip coming up! You guys enjoy! Dont forget to stop by the climbing shop!


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

the book
the book


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By NorCalNomad
From San Francisco
Jul 3, 2013

Pro tip: Don't take any advice from Elanor (craghead)


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By Ellenore Zimmerman
Jul 3, 2013
me

NorCalNomad wrote:
Pro tip: Don't take any advice from Elanor (craghead)

hahahaha....yey grasshopper! so who is the pro? drop Da Name! so did you not pass the lead belay test either?


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By Angie C
From Sacramento, Ca
Jul 4, 2013
Sugarloaf

NorCalNomad wrote:
Not comfortable setting a gear anchor but you feel comfortable climbing above single pieces.... Dude just take one day to practice anchors. If you don't feel comfortable setting gear anchors honestly you aren't ready to lead in Yosemite.


+1

If you do not feel comfortable making an anchor, you should not feel that comfortable placing gear either. I'd strongly recommend taking an anchor lesson with the Yosemite Rock Climbing School/Guides www.yosemitepark.com/rock-climbing.aspx Also, they could guide you guys up something and help teach you more about placing pro and building anchors.

Yosemite is no-joke. Be safe and err on the side of caution. If you don't do your own anchors, or don't feel comfortable, seriously consider hiring someone to help you bridge the gap.


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