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Annadonia Area
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Looking for Lust 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Nate Postma, 1989
Page Views: 4,737
Submitted By: Andrew May on May 18, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Looking for Lust.

Description 

One of my favorites at Red Wing. Its' the longest route on Barn Bluff. Once you get past the first 20ft of lie back flake its smooth sailing on big jugs.


Location 

This route is the farthest to the right on the Annadonia wall. From the parking lot trail take a right when you see the American flag and keep going until you see the flake.


Protection 

Bring at least a 50m rope. 9 Bolts to the anchors. Please use your own gear for top rope.



Photos of Looking for Lust Slideshow Add Photo
Looking for Lust 5.9
BETA PHOTO: Looking for Lust 5.9
Nate Erickson on Looking for Lust. Sept, 2012.
Nate Erickson on Looking for Lust. Sept, 2012.
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By Ian Harmon
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jun 6, 2006
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c

The anchors have been moved about 10 feet lower, eliminating the last two bolts, and some dirty chossy climbing. The 2nd to last bolt is about 5 inches below the new anchor.

By josh wabaunsee
Jul 1, 2007

the new anchor station has created a dangerous sharp rope groove. Id recomend extending the anchor down another 4 feet for toprope sessions.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
Nov 28, 2007

I second Josh. The old anchors were positioned better. With the new ones it's impossible to avoid rope thrashing on a sharp edge.

By Sonnabend
From: West Saint Paul, MN
Jul 9, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Climbed this on July 8th, 2008. This is a great route, deffinately my new favorite at Barn Bluff.
I replaced one of the carabiners at the anchor due to it being worn about halfway through on one end. A good reminder for me to always bring a couple spare biners and not to use them for belaying.

By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Oct 25, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

goes on gear. medium cams, nuts. watch out for rotten rock up top.

By SlowTrad
From: St Paul, MN
May 19, 2010

The anchor needed to be moved due to large chunks being pulled off and rained down on people belaying. I was present in 2008 when a 20+ lb. chunk landed right next to the person belaying. If you are concerned about sharp edges, bring a hammer and smooth it out.

By Kris Gorny
Administrator
May 19, 2010

Sorry BBourgeois, but I disagree. As much as I do appreciate replacing the crappy anchors, I still think the choice of the new anchor location is pretty poor given the ledge directly below it. I also won't bring the hammer to modify one of the best routes at RW to accommodate the arbitrary anchor placement. With time though, and enough people being lowered, a groove will probably form in the rock and there won't be a problem. Slow lowering may be sufficient to avoid the risk of rope damage. Another option would be to rap but nobody ever does that.

By Chase Roskos
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 3, 2010
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

A great climb for Red Wing. Nice and long, almost like two different climbs in one. And yes grooves are beginning to form already.

By Landstrykar
Sep 21, 2011

We climbed this last weekend and to mitigate the rope drag, we for one belayed from a good 15 back from the wall, and also stuck a sweatshirt under the rope up where it lays across the rock. It was bad news for my buddy's sweatshirt, but at least it put our minds at ease about the rope.

By brekkenanders
2 days ago

Great climb - everyone loved it! 2 good sized chunks of rock, however, popped from behind the flake yesterday while someone was climbing - between bolts 1 and 2. Be careful of the third chunk as that looks like it could pop soon, too! The larger piece that fell was about the size of a small backpack. Be cautious of falling rock when belaying/on the ground!