Looking for info on new climbing areas in Santa Barbara.

I have heard of lots of new routes going up in the hills above Santa Barbara. Anyone have more info on the Rattlesnake canyon routes? I have also heard talk of the 'Invisible Wall' up in Colds Springs Canyon from a couple people, anyone have info about that area?

-D

Pssssssst....... not looking to violate rule #1.

But I always thought Santa Barbara was in Southern California.

You might get better results if you moved your question to there.

Just saying.

I agree Guy, but MP has Santa Barbara in the "Central Coast" area under Nor Cal.
SB should be SOUTH CENTRAL coast because we are all OGs! Maybe if the admins do a big restructuring of the California areas, the information I am looking for will appear out of nowhere.

In case you didn't see it, Rattlesnake Canyon stuff is listed here.

Ok, thanks for the sarcasm guys but I am glad to see people are talking about it.
How about some information?

85Doug wrote:Ok, thanks for the sarcasm guys but I am glad to see people are talking about it. How about some information?

By "it" I meant the Invisible Wall. I saw the Rattlesnake section. Fun topos! Jeff, post up the Invisible Wall info!

Thanks to Jeff for giving me the info for the Invisible Wall! Hiked around it this afternoon (no climbing though since it has been raining)and it looks like there are a TON of routes. Some look really long. I am heading there this Saturday! Can't wait to climb!

Rattlesnake Canyon and the Invisible Wall are awesome new climbing spots.
Since there is no write-up online for the Invisible Wall, here is my summary: Great for those looking for routes in the 5.7 to 5.11 range. Shady place for when it is getting too hot in the sun. Climbed 6 routes and thought all to be at least "average" to "way above average" quality routes when compared to other well traveled SB routes. Considering Richard's comments, the routes must have really cleaned up in the last few years. I'll be back!

Wow, I just noticed it has been a few years since this thread and still no info here on the Invisible Wall. Lots of other routes being discovered and rediscovered, yet nothing here. What gives?

Invisible Wall - Mini Guide
Santa Barbara, CA

Getting There
Drive up Gibraltor Road like you going to Gibraltor Rock, but pull over and park at the long hairpin turn.  You should see a Forest Service trailhead sign, which is for the West Fork of Cold Spring Trail.  Walk down the trail and before the trail makes its first right turn there is a knoll on your left.  The top of that knoll is the top of the Main Wall, with anchors accessible for top roping.  You should see a fairly obvious trail leading zig zap up to the left side of the peak, as well as trail branches leading to the other areas.

All Left/Right directions are from the climber’s perspective.

No stars – Do it to say you have done it.
1 Star (*) – Worthwhile doing.
2 Stars (**) – A good, quality route with a notable move or two.
3 Stars (***) – A combination of continuous, good moves, length, position, and rock quality make it standout.
4 Stars (****) – One of the IW’s best routes.
5 Stars (*****) – One of the very best routes in the Santa Barbara area (a short, nebulous list.)

Shangorilla Tower:
The pinnacle at the far East end of the crag. Two bolts for anchor atop the tower for these routes. A good starting point for top-roping or some easier leads.
Approach: From the Saddle on the Cold Springs trail, take the main trail (almost) straight up to the top of the hill. At this point the trail turns right and traverses the top of the hill to the East end and the top of the Bug Wall. From here, follow the trail just below the ridgeline down to the Tower.
1.     Penny Ante, 5.7 *, 3 Bolts, East face of tower. (FA – Penny, Daisy, and Jeff Mahoney)
2.    Tuttle, 5.9, TR, Arête left of Penny Ante. Climb the arête staying as close to the edge as possible. Finish on the south side blocks. (FA – Jeff Mahoney)
3.    Buttle, 5.6 *, TR, Arête right of Penny Ante. This can be led (PG) by starting the same as for Penny Ante, clipping the first bolt then moving right to the arête. Clip the 2nd bolt of Ups-a-Daisy and stay on the ridge to the top. (FA – Penny and Jeff Mahoney)
4.     Ups-a-Daisy, 5.9*  - 2 bolts, North face of tower. The route stays on the face between the arête and the crack on the right. (FA – Daisy and Jeff Mahoney)
Bug Wall:
At the East end of the crag’s summit ridge, two widely spaced and set-back eyebolts are atop the crag for an anchor.
5.    Hypnotoad, 5.7*, 3 bolts + 2 bolts for anchor, climb the narrow, left most face with the perfect left hand jug at the start of the face proper. (FA – Penny, Daisy, and Jeff Mahoney)
6.    Another Day, Another Scorpion, 5.8, Gear to 4”, Left-side crack is easy if you stay on the outside or harder if you get in it and pull yourself out of the awkward alcove. (FA – Jeff Mahoney)
7.    Wasp in My Pocket, 5.8+/9- **, 6 bolts, Cool double pocket similar to bowling ball finger holes used to pass the 3rd bolt straight up for a few moves before moving left and finishing up and right on an exciting headwall. (FA – JR, JM, and ML on 9/18/10)
8.    Twice stung and forever shy, 5.10**, 6 eyebolts, Right bolt line with a horizontal break between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Stay true to the bolts on the upper part. (FA – JR and JM on 9/18/10)
9.    Tarantulas in My Crack, 5.8 PG-13, (5.6 wide crack only), Gear to 6” Follow the off-width crack to just below the bush, find some gear placements in the tiny horizontal crack prior to committing to step out left onto the face and finish using the diagonal rail to reach the TSAFS anchor. It is 5.6 if you don't finish on the face and just 4th class it around the bush to the top. (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Dave Fresilli)
For the next three routes, use the two eyebolts for anchors in a boulder atop the cliff above the short headwall.
10. Utopia Railways, 5.7, TR + 1 directional bolt on arête, arête climb to the left of ‘Acid Surgery.’ (FA – Jeff Mahoney)
11.    Acid Surgery, 5.9+ **, 6 Bolts, straight up over a small overlap/roof past four bolts to hit the arête. After the 4th bolt, head straight up to gain the arête and follow the arête past more one bolt to a bushy ledge 6 feet below the top of the formation. Above this 5 foot headwall there is two eyebolts for an anchor. Variation: after the 4th bolt head right to join “Trouble with Ducts” for the last two bolts of that route. (FA – Jan Roestel and Jeff Mahoney)
12.    Trouble with Ducts, 5.10 PG**, 5 Bolts, the right bolt line which passes a 4 foot slash in the rock. Requires an attentive belay from a good belayer. Goes to the same anchor atop the cliff above the short headwall as Acid Surgery* (FA – Jan Roestel on 9/22/10)
 * From this belay stance, there's a scramble up to the climber’s right (west) that can be used to access routes on the upper face of the Main Wall or the top of routes on the lower portion of the Main Wall and the anchors/trees for the routes listed below.

Main Wall:
The crag’s middle wall section is broken into a lower and upper face by a catwalk which is accessible at either end of the wall. Many routes on the Main Wall can be combined to form two pitch climbs.
To approach from the saddle of the West Fork of Cold Springs trail, a short way up the trail, turn left and contour around to the northwest along a well-established trail. Stay right as you contour and you will find yourself at the big Live Oak which marks the top of the Central Services face. From the large Oak, continue east and scramble down a steep trail along the base of the wall. When coming from this direction, the first routes you will pass under are the upper wall’s ‘Toe-talitarian Tower’ and the trail will level out just before the start of ‘Bad Sportsmanship’ on the lower wall.
To approach from the East End of the crag, scramble down from the base of the Bug Wall area to the climber’s right to the East/left end of the Lower Main Face. First bolt line you come to from this direction is ‘Pulling Strings.’

Upper Main Wall:
13.    Right Toe-talitarian Tower, 5.9+ *, 7 bolts + 2 bolts with chains for anchor. Start in the large crack on the right and traverse the shelf 12 feet up to reach the first bolt. Continue up around to the right side of a bulging, toe shaped tower, finishing up the middle up the face past the last bolt. An anchor can be built with large cams in the starting crack on the belay ledge.* (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Jan Roestel)
14.    Left Toe-talitarian Tower, 5.10**, 6 (7) bolts +2 bolts with chains for anchor. From the ledge, crimp up the face to a shelf 12 feet up. Or start in the crack same as for #21. Once on the shelf, clip a bolt. Pull up and around the left side of a bulging, toe shaped tower via large flakes and crimps. (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Jan Roestel) Complete the direct start up the thin, center-left of the face (+1 bolt)* Jan has done the center-right of the face sans bolt at 5.10+/.11- PG-13/R
15. FECK 2 (Filthy, Easy Crack 2) 5.4, TR/Solo. The crack on the right of ‘Bang the Drum.’ FA: Jeff Mahoney, 4/6/13.
16. Bang the Drum Slowly, 5.8*, 6 Bolts + 2 bolts with chains for anchor, Starts on the mid-wall ledge further down the catwalk from ‘Cashing Out.’ Start by liebacking the large flake/crack and move onto the arête at the first bolt. Continue trending up and to the right following the bolts. The large pocket can be played like a drum. (Jan Roestel and Jeff Mahoney on 4/10/13)
17.     FECK 1 (Filthy, Easy Crack 1) 5.2, TR/Solo. The crack on the left of ‘Bang the Drum.’ FA: Jeff Mahoney, 4/6/13.
18.    Cashing Out, 5.9 **, 4 Bolts + small gear, two eyebolt anchor on top of the formation shared with “Escape the Snake.”  The 2nd pitch to ‘Next Time Send Cash’ is accessible via the mid-wall catwalk. This is the bolt line down and to the right of ‘Escape the Snake’ which and finishes in a blocky right facing dihedral. (*Originally this route was the last third of Next Time Send Cash, but much rock fall requiring an additional bolt along with a change of the line made it a separate entity.) (FA – Jan Roestel and Jeff Mahoney)
19.    Escape the Snake (aka Hayden's Odyssey), 5.9 * 3 bolts + two eyebolts for anchor, the top of the formation shared with ‘Cashing Out.’ Starts at the high point of the mid-wall catwalk. Head right after the second bolt, then up and over the finishing bulge. (FA – ML, JM, and JR on 6/26/11)
20.    Lowry aka ‘Ere I am JH, 5.7, Gear to 1”, on the upper face, starts on the shelf above “False Ears.” There are two solid slots to get gear into if you don't feel like soloing---just keep looking---and don't fall. (FA - Jeff Mahoney and?)

Lower Main Wall:
21. A Man Alone, 5.7 TR the dirty arête on the right with big swing potential. (FA - Jeff Mahoney)
22.   Bad Sportsmanship, 5.9 **, 5 bolts + Anchor, The right most line of bolts and starts at the low point of the Main wall. Head up over the swell to the anchor, which is located just below some large blocks. Not as awkward as it might first appear with good moves through the bulge. (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Jan Roestel on 5/22/11)
23.  Ches Game, 5.10- **, 5 bolts + Fixe ring and bolt with chain anchor (shared with E.E.E.) From the near flat base of the main wall, go straight up through the swell via a hueco and angled edges between E.E.E. and Bad Sportsmanship. (FA – Jeff Mahoney, Chester Upham, and Jan Roestel on 3/23/13)
24.  Evan’s Erogenous Epidural (aka “Triple E”), 5.8 *, 4 bolts + Fixe ring and bolt with chain anchor (shared with Ches Game). Start up a blocky ramp to a sloping shelf and surmount the right side of a scoop using the large flakes. After clipping the forth bolt move right and up, climbing the face using a couple of shallow pockets and edges (5.8+). Variations: After pulling over the bulge, go straight up using the loose holds on the edge of the gully to avoid committing to the final face. (FA- Jan Roestel, Anna Roestel, and Mike Lewis on 5/6/12) Added new 1st bolt on 6/19/13.
25.  Next Time Send Cash, 5.9*, 6 Bolts + 2 Fixe Rings, Goes up just to the right of 'Falling Snakes' into a trough, (anchor is here) up a short finger crack, and hits the shelf in the middle of the wall. Continue up ‘Cashing Out’ as a 2nd pitch to the top of the crag. (FA – Ben and Katie Haldeman)
26.    Caution: Falling Snakes, 5.10 ***, 8 bolt route + 2 Fixe rings. Starts with a mantle into a dish then up out over a 3 foot overlap at mid-height. (FA – JM, JR, and ML on 5/1/11)
27.     False Ears 5.8 ** - 5 bolts + 2 bolt anchor with chains, on the face left of a trough. Arches right along an angled seam, up, and back to the left on the face before heading straight up to the anchor. Stay away from the gully and the bee’s nest! (FA – Jeff Mahoney, Jan Roestel, and Ben Haldeman)
28. Fun Without Suspicion, 5.10, TR, the dirty face between ‘False Ears’ and ‘Little Necrophilia.’ (FA – Jeff Mahoney, Jan Roestel, and Ben Haldeman)
29.  Little Necrophilia 5.7 *, 4 bolt route below an Oak (with slings) in the middle of the wall. Hit the bowling ball sized pocket and pull over the bulge. The Oak above this route originally served as the anchor but the anchor for ‘False Ears is often used. (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Steve King)
30.  You've Been Promoted, 5.6, 3 bolts, 30'. (FA: Jeff Mahoney, Trevor Marks, Alex Lau (lead) 8/9/13; Julian Lim (TR) 7/31/13)
31.    Pulling Strings, 5.5, 3 bolts to anchors. (FA: Pepper, Ashton, Tristan & Trevor Marks, Alex Lau, Jeff Mahoney, 8/8/13)
32. Going in Late, 5.6 to 5.8, 2 bolt anchor shared with ‘Pulling Strings.’ The face variations between “Pulling Strings” and “You’ve Been Promoted.” (FA – Jennifer Brown and Jeff Mahoney on 8/9/13)

Central Services Area
At the West end of the Invisible Wall crag is a tall slab with routes up to 100+ft in length. From the summit anchor a doubled 60m will not get you straight down to the ground. Swing to climber’s right to get down or use a 70m rope.
To approach from the saddle of the West Fork of Cold Springs trail, a short way up the climbers trail, turn left and contour around to the northwest along a well-established trail. A few yards before a couple of boulders protruding into the trail, turn left to drop down to the base of the face. Or step past the protruding boulders and continue to contour around on the right branch to reach the large Live Oak which marks the top of this face. From the base of the Main Wall, head west, up the gully trail along the base of the face to the large, Live Oak at the top of this area.

The Tri-Tip Wall:
This is the first wall section you come to as you drop down the trail to the base of the crag. The Tri-Tip Wall is located to the climber’s right of the tree/bush choked gully which separates the Tri-Tip Wall from the Central Services Wall proper.
33.    Missing Man Meat, 5.9+ *, 4 eyebolts + 2 eyebolt anchor for ‘Hessian Aggression.’ Start at the sharks-tooth at the base of the wall and climb up to a shallow, left facing dihedral at mid-height on the face. Climb past two more bolts between the shallow dihedrals before heading left to the anchor for the previous route. (FA – JR and JM on 6/26/11)
34.    Hessian Aggression **, 5.11+/.12- (a tall V4-5-ish), 4 eyebolts + 2 eyebolt anchor with chains. Start 15 feet below a softball sized pocket and up over a bulge to lower angle climbing above.  (Jan Roestel on 11/19/11)

Central Services Face:    
35.    Hawk-Eye Surveillance, 5.8 ***, 7 eyebolts + 2 eyebolt anchor shared with ‘Ministry’. Just left of the gully, start on the arête behind an Oak tree. Move left onto the face at the 2nd bolt and continue up for 5 more bolts passing a bulge using any one of a variety of ways. Variation, 5.8 PG, After the 4th bolt take the left leaning crack/flake (small TCU) to finish past the last two bolts of 'Ministry.’ (FA – JR, ML, and JM on 5/8/11, variation on 4/14/11)
36.    Ministry of Misinformation, 5.10 ***, 8 eyebolts + 2 eyebolt anchor, line immediately right of Central Services. Starting from directly below the first eyebolt, face climb up past 8 eyebolts. Variations: 5.10-, Use the large pod by the 2nd bolt and dodge left at the 6th bolt and then back. (FA – Jan Roestel Direct on 4/22/11, Variations JR, JM, and ML on 4/14/11)
37.    Central Services, 5.11- ****, 7 Bolts + 2 bolt mid-wall belay/rap station located 25 feet below the summit. Start in a dihedral under the right side of a cave/hole and move right out of the dihedral onto the expansive face to clip the first bolt. (FA – Jan Roestel and Jeff Mahoney in Feb. of 2012)
38.    Rash-ional Thought 5.9 ***, 4 eyebolts + very thin to small gear (<1”). Start in a shallow dihedral to the left of a cave/hole; the first bolt is up under a two foot roof. After pulling over the roof, follow the broken dihedral past more eyebolts and then thin cracks which cut up and back rightward. Pass the rap station for ‘Central Services’ and continue up then left around the summit block to a gully beneath the large Oak. (FA – Jan Roestel and Jeff Mahoney in Aug. of 2010)
    This route has evolved quite a bit including the calving off of a massive slab leaving the 2 foot roof. It originally had two bolts (what are now the 3rd and 4th bolts) and what is now the 1st bolt was added after the slab fell. Another bolt (the 2nd) was added just over the roof bulge to make it more ‘climber friendly’ almost 3 years after the original FA.
39.    Faces are a Doddle (Compared to Tits and Ass) aka Direct Crack Finish, 5.10- **, small-medium “hands-size” gear; from the rap station for ‘Central Services’ go straight up via the short but steep hand crack to the 2 eyebolt anchor on the summit of the cliff.  First led as the finish to ‘Rash-ional Thought’, this is a perfect (and almost necessary) way to top out any of the climbs. (FA – TR: Daisy and Jeff Mahoney, FFA: Jan Roestel, onsited this dirty beast in the dark one night in Aug. of 2010)
40.    Irrational Behavior, Project, 8 eyebolts + thin to small gear to (1”); shares the start of ‘Rash-ional Thought’. Where ‘Rash-ional Thought’ cuts right, continue up the hanging face past 3 more eyebolts leading into the gully (1 eyebolt) beneath the large Live Oak at the top of the wall.
41.    King for a Day (aka Steve’s Route,) 5.9 *, 8 Bolts + 2 Bolts with chains for anchor. When at the base of the wall, it is the lone, leftmost route, down and to the east/climber’s left 40 yards from the start of ‘Rash-ional Thought’ or ‘Central Services’. A fun route that needs frequent traffic to keep clean. FA – Jeff Mahoney, Alex Lau, Lauren Silver, and Chris Wing on 4/7/12.

The Red Wall:

Located near the bottom of the canyon, the Red Wall is accessible via a steep trail which drops down a gully just beyond the base of ‘King for a Day’ on the Central Services Wall. It can also be accessed by the West Fork of Cold Springs trail. From the old tunnel on the Cold Springs trail, hike up the streambed (which can require some bushwacking) until the wall is visible to the south (hiker’s left.) Scramble up out of the creek bed via the talus field to the base. Ranging in length from 40 to 95 feet, the routes consist of mostly bolted faces with a few mixed protection and all gear routes. A light, single rack to 4” will suffice.

42.    Crick o’ Frickin, 5.7. Top-rope the eastern (left) arête from Fixe ring anchors for the next route. (FA – Jeff Mahoney on 11/4/12.)
 
43.    Crock o’ Lichen, 5.9 *, 6 bolts + 2 Fixe ring anchors. The (mostly) face climb just to the left of the crack. Builds as you get higher. Fun! (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Jan Roestel on 11/4/12)

44.    Crack a Lackin’, 5.7 *, 1 bolt (the 2nd bolt from “Crock-o-Lichen”) and gear to 4 inches + 2 Fixe ring anchors shared with ‘Crock-o-Lichen.’ Starts in a thin crack and finishes with a wide, funky and fun bear hug move to reach the anchor. (FA – Jeff Mahoney and Jan Roestel on 11/4/12)

45.    Ring My Belle, 5.11- ***, 7 bolts, + 2 Fixe ring anchors. The 1st face climb right of the large dihedral which launches from a shelf 10 feet up. (FA – Jan Roestel on 3/3/12)

46.    Smooth Oxidator, 5.10 ***, 8 bolts + 2 Fixe ring anchors. The 2nd bolt line over from the large, right-facing dihedral with red bolt hangers. Launch from the shelf 10 feet up and take nicely sustained crimps all the way to the anchor. (FA – Jeff Mahoney on 3/3/12.)

47.    Fiona’s Fable, 5.10 ****, 7 bolts + 2 Fixe ring anchors. Step off the big flake to the right and with your belayer paying close attention, crimp out to a stance on the face to reach the first bolt. Enjoy the great edges and crimps for the next 70 ft. (FA – Mike Lewis on 11/3/12.)

P48.    Anchor, 2 Fixe double ring anchors. Start right of FF and take a dike across/up the face?

49.    Cuts Like a Knife, 5.11 ***, 10 eyebolts + 2 eyebolt anchor with chains. Tackles the tall, center section of the Red Wall. The scruffy rock quality at the top detracts from this otherwise great route. (FA – Jan Roestel on 9/14/13)

50.     Tiny Dancer, 5.10- **, 7 Petzl eyebolts + 2 eyebolt anchors with chains shared with ‘The Mason Dixon Line.’ Starts off the right side of the bench. Puzzle out the initial moves and climb up good edges before veering right at the last bolt (to avoid the poorest rock) to reach the MDL anchors. (FA – Jan Roestel with Anna on 10/26/13)
       
51.    Dirty Dancer (aka Menzo’s Toprope), 5.10**, 2 eyebolt anchor with chains for Mason Dixon Line. Get past the blank, grey rock at the base and climb the plumb line up to the MDL anchor. (FA – Menzo Baird on 1/18/2015)

52.    The Mason Dixon Line, 5.9 ***, 5 bolts and gear to 2” + 2 eyebolt anchor with chains. The right most line of eyebolts. Climb the face past two eyebolts to the large flake at the overlap then follow a seam which opens up into a thin crack in spots higher up. If you forget the gear and go bolts only, it is “R”, really “R”.  Variation, 5.9+, Stay right of the third bolt when passing the overlap to make it slightly harder and more direct. (FA – Jan Roestel with Anna on 11/1/12.)

53.    “Flake”, 5.5 *, Standard rack to 4 inches + 2 eyebolt anchor. At the right (West) end of the Red Wall, this route starts in the left-facing dihedral. At the break, step left to the hand/fist crack with a tree growing out of it at the top of the wall. (FA – Jan Roestel and Mark Morando on 10/6/12.) Variation, 5.  , Once the hand-sized right leaning crack is reached, traverse over to the MDL joining it above the 5th bolt to keep it all gear protected.