Looking for Goldilocks 5.11b
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 75 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.11b [details] |
| FA: | Rich Baker, Mark Wilson, Andy Ross 1987 |
| Submitted By: | matthew ritter on Sep 6, 2011 |
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Scrub me!
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Description The beautiful left-facing corner just left of SHORT BUT SWEET. Climb the slab to a flexy piton, pull over the roof cruxfully, then follow finger a crack with some tricky gear to a crux gaining a beautifully splitter hand crack higher up.
Location Main Cliff just left of SHORT BUT SWEET
Protection Piton, normal rack to 3 inches. a screamer for piton
scrubbed
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upper hand crack
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looking down
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| Comments on Looking for Goldilocks |
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By burlap submariner
Sep 19, 2011
| Matt did you climb this? Ive been to the base but it was super dirty. I do believe a cleaning is in order. |
By apross
Sep 22, 2011
| This is a great pitch that a quick scrub would do it some good.
One of the first new routes I ever did and what a fun day with both Rich and Mark.
Sadly, Rich passed away last year way before his time. |
By matthew ritter
Sep 23, 2011
| Yes i scrubbed it with a friend. No i didnt climb it. it could use more work. |
By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 24, 2011
| This really is a worthy pitch. I led it around '97 and it was dirty but doable. Great crack climbing with tricky gear, as I remember.
It's a nice complement to Lumberjack Crack. |
By matthew ritter
Sep 29, 2011
| i actually did climb it i forgot because i aided it.... um yes some tricky gear for sure especially at the second crux pulling into the hand crack. first piton should be a shiny new bolt! |
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