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Looking for Goldilocks T 
Short But Sweet T 

Looking for Goldilocks 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Rich Baker, Mark Wilson, Andy Ross 1987
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: matthew ritter on Sep 6, 2011

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upper hand crack

Description 

The beautiful left-facing corner just left of SHORT BUT SWEET. Climb the slab to a flexy piton, pull over the roof cruxfully, then follow finger a crack with some tricky gear to a crux gaining a beautifully splitter hand crack higher up.


Location 

Main Cliff just left of SHORT BUT SWEET


Protection 

Piton, normal rack to 3 inches. a screamer for piton



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scrubbed
scrubbed
looking down <br />
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By burlap submariner
Sep 19, 2011

Matt did you climb this? Ive been to the base but it was super dirty. I do believe a cleaning is in order.

By apross
Sep 22, 2011

This is a great pitch that a quick scrub would do it some good.
One of the first new routes I ever did and what a fun day with both Rich and Mark.
Sadly, Rich passed away last year way before his time.

By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Sep 23, 2011

Yes i scrubbed it with a friend. No i didnt climb it. it could use more work.

By jason seaver
From: Estes Park, CO
Sep 24, 2011

This really is a worthy pitch. I led it around '97 and it was dirty but doable. Great crack climbing with tricky gear, as I remember.

It's a nice complement to Lumberjack Crack.

By matthew ritter
From: West Campton, New Hampshire
Sep 29, 2011

i actually did climb it i forgot because i aided it.... um yes some tricky gear for sure especially at the second crux pulling into the hand crack. first piton should be a shiny new bolt!