Looking for Advice on Shoes

Hello, I'm getting back into climbing after being out of it for almost 30 years. I see that much has changed in the way of gear. I want to do easy to moderate trad routes (5.6 to 5.10)and want something that is a decent performer, but comfortable enough to wear on mulit-pitch routes. I live a short distance from Yosemite, so that is where I will be climbing, but do some gym climbing too. I have a wide, thick foot (9-1/2 or 10). I will most likely buy online or from someone on the forum. Any advice is appreciated.

Thank You,

Matt Williams 1 wrote:Hello, I'm getting back into climbing after being out of it for almost 30 years......... I will most likely buy online or from someone on the forum. Any advice is appreciated.

All shoes today are 1,000 times better than the ones from 30 years back....

But throw out the notion of a shoe size.

Get a pair that fit your feet and the only way to tell is to put them on your feet... in person, at a store.

Stay away from REI, make the effort to go to a real climbing store that carry many brand and models.

I love Mythos, they fit my feet like no others do, and they are well made and don't fall apart like some other shoes do.

Welcome back to the sport/life.... some things have changed other stuff not so much.

Guy, Thanks for the reply. Looks like I'll be heading to the Bay Area. Unfortunately we don't have any real climbing shops here in the central valley anymore. Our little local shop in Merced, Tom's Bike and Mountain went out of business years ago. Man I loved that store and got a lot of gear there. Unfortunately the big box stores are running all the little guys out of business. I'll look around and hopefully I can find an independent shop up by the bay or I'll check out the store up at Curry.

Agree with Guy. Try on lots! I also found it helps to have an understanding of your foot shape--which it seems like you do. I'm a lady, but I have a really wide forefoot and narrow heel, so five ten styles tend to fit me better than La Sportiva, which seems to fit longer and slightly narrower feet better. I've tried on lots of shoes, and I always end up buying five tens. Also my big toe is longer than my second toe, so I like an asymmetrical forefoot rather than symmetrical.

I actually just bought my third pair of shoes. I have arthritis in my big toes now so was looking for a very stiff midsole. I'm pretty happy with my buy--the five ten Anasazi Guide. Meant for moderate trad climbs. I was climbing in the Huecos, and I absolutely loved them (fit my duck feet!) but they are not stiff enough. The stiffness for me is a clinical requirement, but it's also going to be great for trad. It takes me a long time to place gear, and I can end up standing on a pebble for a long time, so this should help with toe fatigue...

Dubs, thanks for the input. Looks like a shopping trip is in order this weekend. I picked up a used set of Evolve Pontas from another member, but they murder my feet (sized them too small) and my old Montelliana Skywalkers are ready for the museum. I'm guessing that the La Sportivas are not going to fit my Fred Flintstone feet either, but I'll definitely check out the 5.10 and some others.