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By AhK
Nov 29, 2010
View from the Fin
Hey,

I have been using an Edelweiss Element 10.2 mm rope for a while. I'm looking to buy a new rope this off-season and would like some input.

Traits I would like include:
-dynamic
-70 m
-dry treated
-9.8-10.1 mm
-middle mark or bi-pattern

I'd like a lightweight rope that can handle some abuse while staying workable. If you have a rope that meets some or all of these conditions, please let me know your feelings about it.

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By DBarton
From CENTENNIAL, CO
Dec 1, 2010
Moab, Potash Road and Ice Cream Parlor
I love my New England Glider (9.9) 70m. I also see them on sale here and there. Holds up well and has awesome hand to it. Nice colors and you have the option of bi-pattern (i wet cheap and did not get this option).

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By JSlack
Dec 1, 2010
O Yeaaaaaaa
I would also recommend New England ropes. I did half dome last summer and we took my brand new Edelrid and my buddy's year old New England rope. We used the ropes interchangeably so each went through pretty much the same wear and tear. By the time we topped out, my rope looked fairly thrashed (though no internal damage) and my friend's New England rope still looked like new. Their sheath technology is impressive and next time I buy a rope it will be New England.

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By Kevin Connolly
From CO
Dec 1, 2010
ive had an element for a while and think its a great rope, just a little to fat. i recently bought a bluewater lightning 9.7 and am very pleased with it. seems a bit burlier than other 9.7s but much easier to handle than the element. no middle mark on mine and im not sure if you can get a bi-pattern but ive climbed on a lot of different ropes and this one is by far my favorite.

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By Billcoe
Dec 6, 2010
New England does make great ropes. Beal has a solid performer too in that range, so does Edelweiss, Edelrid and a few others. Not Cousin. Not Petzl. In fact, Do NOT buy the Petzl ropes. They had a batch of some that literally fell apart within a couple of weeks, then they didn't stand behind them and told the sellers to piss up a rope. (presumably another brand). You can search on Rockclimbing for all that trauma. Do a search for "Shit ropes", "new ropes that fall apart" or "Petzl ropes". Same-same.

Although I swore I wouldn't EVER buy a Petzl rope, my inner gear whore went nutz when REI put the 9.4 x 70 Petzl on sale for $88 dollars. Holy shit that's dirt cheap for a 9.4 x 70m. My sweet but older @3 years) 9.4 70m Bluewater Dominator was aging and I figured I'd buy the new one and open her up next year or the year after...such a sick price. Yet a buddy brought his Petzl 9.4 x 70 down to Red Rocks last month, and despite being relatively new, it was a total POS. Total P.O.S. First, despite being relatively new, his has stiffened: much like a steel cable. Certainly much much more than my old 9.4. Not a good trait. But worse than that, much worse and perhaps even life threatening in this case was the fact that it kinked badly. By badly let me say that in 38 years of climbing I've never seen one kink that bad. We were on some long easy route...Birdland, and it looked like it carried a twist as I flaked it out on the goround, so I showed my friend how to clip it to your harness with a tail so when the leader hit the first belay you could roll it around and untwist it before you tied in, even if the leader couldn't hear you. Neat trick but simple, basically don't tie in but just clip the end to your harness gear loop with 5 feet of slack so the leader doesn't pull it all the way up as they set up the belay). Yet that wasn't enough and it still kinked anyway on the route. I explained to my buddy that you need to unroll ropes when new or they will kink and I was told that not only had he down that but that full length raps didn't seem to help make it unkink like most other ropes he'd encountered.

We rapped the 7 raps to the round, which normally would fix any kink issues for some time. The next day they carried that rope up Epinephrine (without the old guy), and lo and behold I was told that it kinked up so badly mid route, despite the fact that they were only normally swapping leads: that they had to untie and unkink it. That would have been fine but the fucker got stuck on a flake below and it was an extra 1/2 hour.

Trust me, if you blow a half hour on a route like epi, at 1900' or whatever the hell it is, you might be sleeping on the cactus in 20 degree weather because of it. It's bad....real real bad. That those guys were on top by 1:07pm (by my watch as I'd hiked up with shoes and water) in no part mitigates the Petzls piss poor performance.

In fact I'm selling that POS. I paid $88.93. It's for sale for $150 right now.

Anyone?... ?

Anyone ?


Hmmm, poor sales skillz. I need to put it on ebay.

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By darrell hodges
Dec 6, 2010
I love the Bluewater Lightning Pro 9.7. Very durable, stretchy and soft catching (but not ridiculous like the Petzl). Nice feel- not "cable-y", slides through a Gri Gri easily when feeding slack fast and yet locks it up quickly as well. It comes in a bi-color also.

I'm not so keen Petzl ropes. I wouldn't recommend one or buy one.

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By Andrew Blease
From 4runner, parking lot, USA
Dec 6, 2010
Sterling ropes all the way. I have a 10.2x60m Evolution Kosmos that I love. It's tough and it's lasted through some hard climbing and big falls, no issues at all and it handles great. I also have Sterling Marathon 8.8mm doubles and they are really great. Double ropes are the way to go. Sterling is a bit cheaper than other companies too.

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By cride
Dec 30, 2010
I second on how bad the Petzl ropes are. They kink and do all the things a rope shouldn't in climbing.

Anyway, I love Millet ropes. They last really long. I guess it is because they make their ropes with "3" cores (triaxiale). Specifically I use the Diamax 10.2 mm for my single dynamic. I think all of Millet ropes are dry treated unless you are looking at their "eco" ropes. I don't see durability as one of the traits you are looking for, but if you do decide to make it a factor, then check out the Millet ropes.

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By Ben Walburn
Feb 1, 2011
"This definitely beats lying in a pile of saw dust all day"
Sterling makes a light 9.7 (cant remember the name). I climbed on it for a year (I live outside boulder and climbed on it every week, year round) before using it for a haul line on El Cap and another wall. Then continued to burn it out at Rifle later that year. This was an incredibly long lasting rope, I can't even begin to recount the amount of times I've taken bigs falls on it. I'm gonna buy another one soon.

Bought a Beal rope once and it blew apart from day 1.
Mammut makes fantastic cords as well.

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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Feb 1, 2011
imho, the single best rope on the market today for all around use is the Sterling Evolution Velocity- 9.8mm line. I've owned them as my primary line for years and its always my go to rope- its beefy enough to take a beating, but skinny enough to not be a bear to lug around. It's got a solid set of specs- impact force, falls, etc, etc- there are ropes out there that give softer falls, but arent as durable. there are ropes out there that are more durable, but dont handle as well or give as soft a catch...the Velocity does everything pretty damn good to excellent, depending on what you're doing. one thing, though- the 70m flavor of the Velocity is Heavy, imho- i'd go for something skinnier at that length- 9.4 or 9.6 at the most.

a few other thoughts-

Petzl ropes arent all that bad, and they're seeing a redesign in construction this year. the failure of the Zephyr (a now-discontinued line) was most likely a thread problem, not a manufacturing problem. still an issue that Petzl could have handled better, though.

New England/Maxim ropes- great hand, solid construction, and highest impact forces on the market. Something to keep in mind.

Edelrid- not much experience with them, but i've heard good things.

Edelweiss- would never buy another rope from them again. My only Edelweiss lasted three months. most of my ropes last two years.

Bluewater- solid construction, good specs, decent handling- i'd buy a bluewater if the price was right.

Mammut- burly, good hand, another rope i'd buy if the price was right.

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By R. Moran
From Moab , UT
Feb 1, 2011
REtro
Mammut Tusk or Edelweiss Laser

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By DEF
From CT
Feb 1, 2011
I love my sterling marathon 10.2 This was season number 2 and it has held up exceptionally well. A friend recommended the marathon to the evolution velocity for its durability, but I have heard great things about the evolution velocity 9.8, available with all those traits you were looking for (bi color / 70 meter etc..)

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By Mike Humphries
From Arvada, CO
Feb 1, 2011
Mammut tusk 9.8 is a wonderful rope, one of the best I've ever climbed on. The Beal in the same diameter range is great to with a bit more stretch. For sport go with the tusk....... trad go Beal or perhaps the Blue water's lightning pro

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By mongoose
Feb 1, 2011
darrell hodges wrote:
I love the Bluewater Lightning Pro 9.7. Very durable, stretchy and soft catching (but not ridiculous like the Petzl). Nice feel- not "cable-y", slides through a Gri Gri easily when feeding slack fast and yet locks it up quickly as well. It comes in a bi-color also. I'm not so keen Petzl ropes. I wouldn't recommend one or buy one.


+1

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By Greg G
From SLC, UT
Feb 1, 2011
The route in it's entirety.
R. Moran wrote:
Mammut Tusk


I've had a Tusk for a year, and have put many, many miles on it. It still performs like it did when I first got it.

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By John Farrell
From Phoenix, AZ
Feb 1, 2011
Having fun at the Enchanted Tower.
I really like Edelrid ropes, and I am quite happy with them. I have been using one for just over two years for sport climbing and it's still going good.

My Petzl Fuse on the other hand is a different story. I never had the kink problems mentioned above. However, I wasn't too impressed with the durability on the rope. In fact, it just got core shot last weekend. I have been using it as my multi-pitch rope for just over a year, so I guess I got good life out of it since I too bought it when REI had it on sale. In that year I used it, it looked more beat up than my Edelrid which gets a lot more use.

To replace it, I ordered the 9.4 Sterling Ion 2 because I got a killer deal on one. I climbed on one once, and I liked it... But mainly because I got a great price on it.

But for the most part, I am very partial to Edelrid.

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By jack s.
From Kamloops, BC
Feb 1, 2011
Mean Green P2
+1 for not getting Petzl ropes. My half line shredded after 8 uses. Every time we rappeled the sheath would flake off until it core shot about 5 feet of rope. Petzl would not stand by the rope. My Petzl rope is now used for cord.

Now I use PMI Verglas half lines, which hold up and handle very well. I am not sure about PMI single lines, but I really love both my PMI half line and static line.

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By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Feb 1, 2011
tanuki
John Wilder wrote:
imho, the single best rope on the market today for all around use is the Sterling Evolution Velocity- 9.8mm line. I've owned them as my primary line for years and its always my go to rope- its beefy enough to take a beating, but skinny enough to not be a bear to lug around. It's got a solid set of specs- impact force, falls, etc, etc- there are ropes out there that give softer falls, but arent as durable. there are ropes out there that are more durable, but dont handle as well or give as soft a catch...the Velocity does everything pretty damn good to excellent, depending on what you're doing...


+1

I have a Biathalon, my regular climbing partner has a Velocity. IMHO, Sterling is the most durable rope out there, and you cannot go wrong with any of their products.

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By bag
Feb 1, 2011
Here's another vote for the Sterling velocity in that diameter (9.8). Best all purpose rope I've owned in 15 years. Plus Sharma works 5.15b/c with it, it's gotta be the rope, right?

I also like the Petzl Fuse 9.4, like a few people here and unlike several others. We've owned 2 of them, done tons of long free routes with em, jugged em on grade V's, etc. I find the stiffer than usual feel to be an asset, not a problem. But that rope is skinnier than what you're looking for, and I haven't owned the 9. or whatever they make, I think it's called the nomad.

Beal ropes suck ass, don't buy one unless you want to throw it away in June.

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By Ivan Paredes
Mar 6, 2013
Hi, I just bought an Edelrid Hawk 10 x 60m ... what do you think about it?

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By dylanfllr
Mar 6, 2013
I've had two sterling marathons, and I'm in the market for a70 evolution too. They are a great company and their ropes lastforever and feel great.

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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Mar 11, 2013
I own an Edelrid Eagle 9.8 and I love the rope, I actually just bought another dry 50m Edelrid 10.3mm on Sierra for $87 as I like having a shorter rope around and even with it being a 10.3 it'll still save me a little weight by being 10m shorter.

Edelrid doesn't have a huge following in the US but I am super happy with the rope. I also bought 4 Edelrid harnesses while I was at it so we'll see how I like those.

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By NYClimber
From New York
Apr 13, 2013
Awesome slab climb right out of the water! Rogers Rock, Lake George, NY. Summer 2013.
I like the Mammut line up so much that is all I will even consider buying now. Prices are good, I like their durability and handling characteristics, and reputation as well. I have had nothing but good luck with all of their ropes and mine seem to wear like iron, handle well, tie knots easily, untie when desired easily, etc.

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By caesar.salad
From southern Maine
Jun 2, 2013
I love my 60m 10.3mm Eldrid Cobra. Takes tons of abuse and looks brand new. It's silky smooth too, though that's a bit of a downside as it can slip a bit in a grigri. The only major downside is its heavy as balls. Very easy to untangle, never kinks. Awesome awesome awesome.

Edit: I met the international sales representative for Sterling once. He had the best job in the world I swear to buddah.

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By S. Neoh
Jun 3, 2013
If durabiity and feel are important to you and you are willing to pay top $$$, here are two (10mm, 70m, dry, bi-color/pattern) -
Mammut Galaxy 10mm 70M SuperDry Duodess, Sterling BiAthlon Pro 10.1mm 70m Dry.
The BiAthlon is very light in spite of its diameter.

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By Greg D
From Here
Jun 3, 2013
Out of the blue.  Photo by Mike W. <br />
Why do people feel the need to answer a question 2 1/2 years later? Wtf. I suspect he already bought a rope by now. Geez.

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