|Bug Barn Dance Wall
The second pitch (or extension) to Cambrian Grey. The name came from the guys at MountainWorks. When we were discussing the possibility of the route, the guys mentioned something about it adding to the legacy of a historic route.
It always seemed strange that Cambrian Grey ended so suddenly in the middle of the slab. We peeked over the roof several times and thought, "wow, that looks like fun." The resulting route is a great addition to an already great route.
Look/feel for some small but positive crimps to get past the first overlap. Moderate slabs and small short challenges typify this line.
It is very possible to do the whole thing as one long pitch.
Second pitch of Cambrian Grey right side of the wall. Two single rope raps or one double.
NINE bolts and chains
BETA PHOTO: Christian Burrell on the FA in early August 2005.
|By Eli Harry|
Oct 19, 2011
I tried but could not get over the first ledge! maybe I was tired from climbing Cambrian Grey but this is not a 5.9 move. At least not the move I was trying to make!
|By Tim Moore|
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Great addition to the route especially with both overhangs. To get over both is not a .9 move. A 10b/c maybe. It gets easy after the second bolt probably down to a .7 to the chains. A 70 meter rope will not get you from the ground and back but it will get you back to the chains at the top of the first pitch. A little dirty as well needs some traffic to clean it up. Definitely worth it though especially with both overhangs. Very well bolted. The first over hang must have lost a hold because the rock looks newly broken and makes the move much more difficult. The second overhang is large and requires a hefty pull move but the holds are their. A worthy addition to the bottom crimpy route