Looking for a do-it-all shell

Hey guys, I want to find a shell that works both for climbing and for skiing/random other outdoor activities. I live on the east coast but climb pretty much all over, so the more variety it can cover, the better.

I'm thinking the Arc Alpha FL looks like a solid option. Any others? I guess part of my question is whether it's worth looking into other materials besides GTX Pro like the Patagonia M10, the Mammut Crater or something

I really like my Black Diamond BDV hoody. Breathes good, flexible, lightweight, waterproof, and really cuts the wind. It's not insulated, but you can easily layer underneath it. Rugged as well, have climbed in it a lot, and it shows no sign of wear.

my do it all shell is the patagonia torrent shell (w/ altering layers under it of course). It's held up great everywhere from sand stone chimneys to scraping by trees in the glades.

it was about $80 when i got at at REI in 2012 or 13. I've thought about upgrading this, but there is a nice peace of mind being able to thrash around in
an affordable jacket which doesn't cost $200-$300

It's light and minimalistic also w/ no clutter to make layering all the more pleasant.

I read on some review that it wasn't breathable... I thought that was BS also since i've never had an issue w/ that personally

Jon Frisby wrote:I guess part of my question is whether it's worth looking into other materials besides GTX Pro like the Patagonia M10, the Mammut Crater or something

eVent is where it's at. Its the only waterproof material that hasn't left me feeling clammy or caused me to sweat extra amounts. I also believe Mtn hardwear's Dry Q. Elite is very similar to eVent. Both materials don't need a temperature gradient to be breathable. Also, both eVent and Dry Q. elite are breathable both ways, allowing air to actually circulate through the shell fabric itself. Where as with gore tex inside the jacket has to hit a certain temp before the hot air is forced out, which is why you'll find pit zips on gore-tex jackets and not on eVent. But with the pit zips open the gore tex material isn't breathing, the pit zips are providing the breathability.

Here's a good comparison of different shell materials:

Waterproof Shell materials

RockinOut wrote: eVent is where it's at. Its the only waterproof material that hasn't left me feeling clammy or caused me to sweat extra amounts. I also believe Mtn hardwear's Dry Q. Elite is very similar to eVent. Both materials don't need a temperature gradient to be breathable. Also, both eVent and Dry Q. elite are breathable both ways, allowing air to actually circulate through the shell fabric itself. Where as with gore tex inside the jacket has to hit a certain temp before the hot air is forced out, which is why you'll find pit zips on gore-tex jackets and not on eVent. But with the pit zips open the gore tex material isn't breathing, the pit zips are providing the breathability. Here's a good comparison of different shell materials: Waterproof Shell materials

I'm a heavy sweater so that eVent seems like a really good alternative. I also won't be wearing it everyday so something that requires a little more care/washing isn't a big negative for me. Thanks for that article - it's really quite informative!

I've been wearing the Alpha FL for everything as of late. Alpine rock, ice climbing, skiing, and as a rain shell. It's small and light enough to take out mountain biking on iffy weather days too. It's a solid jacket that can handle just about anything. Downsides...lack of pockets, no pit zips, and the price of course.

If you're on the east cost, check out the EMS Helix Jacket. It's made of Neoshell, which, IMO, is a good balance between GTX and eVent (and can be had for about $200 less than most other comparable shells).

I've had mine for 3 years and love it. I've worn it winter cragging, alpine climbing, and walking the dog in both snow and rainstorms. Takes it all and keeps going. Totally water proof, VERY breathable, and a great design of both the pockets and hood. All that, and EMS has always been fantastic about customer care - the few times I've had problems with their gear they've taken care of me, no questions asked.

I absolutely love it.

Another vote for the Alpha FL. It's 11 ounces of Alaska like protection. It's definitely built for minimalist alpinism in mind, but it works great for everything.

The Westcomb Shift LT has gotten pretty good reviews on Outdoor Gear Lab and Cold Thistle . It's made of Neoshell and a large weighs in at around 11 ounces.

I compared a Rab neoshell, a Rab Event, and the Alpha FL for a few days. I ended up keeping the neoshell (rab myriad) because: 1) it's slightly stretchy and softer hand than the other waterproofs (esp the alpha FL, which is particularly stiff and krinkly) made it so much more comfortable to wear and move in. Doesn't feel Ilike I'm wearing a rainshell, more like a thin softshell. 2) it was way cheaper because it was a sample model on sale for 65% off. 3) it's my absolute favorite color!

So far I've been quite inpressed with it's breathability: I wear it bike commuting in the rain and don't get much sweat buildup inside. It's a couple ounces heavier than the alpha fl, but actually packs to about the same size. So I'd say neoshell is worth looking into if you want something more quiet/supple but still waterproof and breathable.

Daniel Chambo wrote:I compared a Rab neoshell, a Rab Event, and the Alpha FL for a few days. I ended up keeping the neoshell (rab myriad) because: 1) it's slightly stretchy and softer hand than the other waterproofs (esp the alpha FL, which is particularly stiff and krinkly) made it so much more comfortable to wear and move in. Doesn't feel Ilike I'm wearing a rainshell, more like a thin softshell. 2) it was way cheaper because it was a sample model on sale for 65% off. 3) it's my absolute favorite color! So far I've been quite inpressed with it's breathability: I wear it bike commuting in the rain and don't get much sweat buildup inside. It's a couple ounces heavier than the alpha fl, but actually packs to about the same size. So I'd say neoshell is worth looking into if you want something more quiet/supple but still waterproof and breathable.

I've also recently got a Rab Myriad to replace my Alpha SL. Breathes like a champ, good cut and looong sleeves. Great jacket. I didn't find the Alpha SL at all breathable.

I've been using the marmot ROM jacket with great success on the east coast. It's Gore's wind stopper material, which works great on cold, windy days. For a soft shell, it's surprisingly waterproof. I've used it in light rain, as well as on many ice climbs that were actively dripping on me without any issues. Makes a great alternative to a lot of the other pricy suggestions.

I like the Marmot ROM jacket too. Great athletic fit, stretchy and pretty waterproof for a soft shell.

I've only tried it in the store, but the EMS Air Flow shell is a great bargain at $139 (new) using DVL eVent (with pit zips). I also liked the trim/athletic fit.

ems.com/product/index.jsp?p…

Another vote for the Marmot ROM.

My experience has been the ROM is the perfect ice climbing soft shell. I've been wearing it with a couple different weight base layers lately. I'll wear a Arcteryx Fortez hoody under when it gets cold and a micro puffy underneath when it's really cold.

I like the fact it doesnt ride up when I lift my arms.

The only problem is everybody has one!

After using NeoShell jackets from Rab, I would never use anything else. GoreTex is crap, any way you shake it, eVent is good, but nothing compares to NeoShell.

The Rab Myriad is a solid workhorse, but the NeoGuide is the bees knees for a do it all shell.

I had a ROM, I liked the cut and it worked well for a stretchy softshell. However, the pockets sucked with a harness, the collar was too low, and the hood didn't fit over a helmet. The ROM is good for fairweather but if it is wet or windy you're going to be unhappy.

I have a Rab Neoshell (among others), it has a more generous cut than most other Rab climbing clothing. It breathes extremely well and is pretty waterproof. Of the waterproof fabrics on the market Neoshell probably bridges the hardshell and softshell categories the best.

I'll admit that rab is not the best fit for me, the alpha fl was better, but I liked the fabric so much I decided to live with it. The Myriad (and other rab jackets I've tried) is a little too slim in the arms and shoulders (which seems odd since it's built for climbers), and a bit too big in the torso. I guess I should get a super poofy vest than it'd be perfect!

My main midlayer is the Patagonia Nano Air, which is so breathable that it's not wind resistant. Would pairing a neoshell piece with it be problematic?

Jon Frisby wrote:My main midlayer is the Patagonia Nano Air, which is so breathable that it's not wind resistant. Would pairing a neoshell piece with it be problematic?

Dunno. I ski in mine and a fleece underneath most days, but that's just me.

I'd tentatively say it's about as windproof as gore windstopper, which is to say all but.

Daniel Chambo wrote:The Myriad (and other rab jackets I've tried) is a little too slim in the arms and shoulders (which seems odd since it's built for climbers), and a bit too big in the torso.

I found the cut of a large ideal for myself, I'm 6'3" and lanky as hell. Larges of other brands are way to wide in the body. It's definitely a slim fit, but I can fit two layering jackets underneath. Hope this helps others with their sizing.

Patagonia Knifeblade!

I'm a fan of NeoShell. If you don't like the Rab cut, you can try on the Nabu from Marmot. It's my ice, ski, everything winter jacket. It has an athletic cut. I'm a small fella, and it has worked for me - on it's own and layered for cold days.