Look Who's Talking 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 110 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Unknown |
| Submitted By: | Peter Gram on Jun 20, 2004 |
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BETA PHOTO: Talk Buttress - Look Who's Talking on the left, No...
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Description Look Who's Talking is a really great route, despite the vegetation and squeeze chimney as seen below. Start on top of a chockstone, which is just before the dropoff to the left. Make an airy traverse left (ground drops below), but this can be protected with a red alien. Reach the crack and all the plant life. Easily avoid the plants on face holds, passing 2 really bad pitons which aren't worth clipping. Reach a beautiful finger crack which splits a smooth as glass wall, pulling through a roof. Face climb around the squeeze chimney, then finish up on a ledge. Some moderate downclimbing to the left is required to get off.
Protection Mostly stuff #1 camalot or smaller. Maybe a few bigger pieces. Also, fairly small gear for the anchor.
| Comments on Look Who's Talking |
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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 7, 2004
rating: 5.8
| Great route - the roof and the squeeze chimney are classic. Be careful on the tricky opening traverse - it is a good idea for the belayer to anchor to something. |
By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 2, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Getting off is a pain. Climbing is otherwise good. Save this one for last. |
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