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Look Mom, No Friends 

Look Mom, No Friends 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: pre-1981
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Chris Wenker on Mar 23, 2009
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BETA PHOTO: Look Mom, No Friends (5.7), Far Rock, Tres Piedras...
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Description 

Follow the fist crack as it trends left up the face, then hang a hard right and finish up the ramp. Mostly <=5.6 climbing except the bulge at the start, which is easily protected. This would be a decent beginner trad lead.

This description is based on the 1981 guide. The 1984 "Tao's Rock II" guide also has a route called 'Look Mom, No Friends', but it's in a slightly different location and seems to more closely match the 'Look Mom, Friends' route in the 1981 guide. I deferred to the precedent of the 1981 guide.


Location 

On the southern end of the east wall of the dome, just right of a chimney and left of a roof. Ascend the obvious fist crack that leads to a ramp above. Walk off to the north.


Protection 

Standard trad rack of single cams up to #4 C4. Gear anchor and/or slung boulders on top.



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