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Long's/Kiener's Conditions
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By Freddy.Mondale
From Boulder, CO
Nov 22, 2012

Has anyone been up there recently? thinking of giving it a try in the next couple days...


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By coppolillo
Nov 24, 2012

hey freddy,

i've been up in the park every week for the past month...on alexanders, fields, and all mixed up twice.....we were on fields a couple weeks ago and lambslide was black ice on the climber's right side (dotted with rocks) and skiable/nice cramponing snow on the climber's left side....the ice is gradually sublimating on the steeper routes and there's definitely snow on the ledges, but it's pretty bare for this time of year (my buddy wore running shoes to mt. lady washington)....anyway, the notch couloir looked like a bit of snow in there, as did upper kiener's, but it's drier than usual at the moment....it's been crazy windy the last few days, so perhaps there are some pockets of blown-in (careful!) snow....best of luck and let me know what you see up there.....rob


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By Freddy.Mondale
From Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2012

Thanks Rob! We ended up doing it yesterday. Lamb's slide is deep fluff on the left gradually turning to bulletproof ice on the right side (perfect cramponing near the middleish right).
the broadway ledges were covered with wind compacted snow almost like alpine ice in places...really nice.
Upper kiener's on the other hand was deep powdery snow wallowing. We had to pick our way up the rock to avoid trudging through too much snow.
It ended up being a long day but still tons of fun! the position is just incredible up there.


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Nov 25, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

Freddy.Mondale wrote:
Thanks Rob! We ended up doing it yesterday. Lamb's slide is deep fluff on the left gradually turning to bulletproof ice on the right side (perfect cramponing near the middleish right). the broadway ledges were covered with wind compacted snow almost like alpine ice in places...really nice. Upper kiener's on the other hand was deep powdery snow wallowing. We had to pick our way up the rock to avoid trudging through too much snow. It ended up being a long day but still tons of fun! the position is just incredible up there.


thanks for the beta, now I've got something to do monday


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By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Nov 25, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my "Bourne Identity" style reboot of The Eiger Sanction. This was from the rough draft's first act.

Freddy.Mondale wrote:
Thanks Rob! We ended up doing it yesterday. Lamb's slide is deep fluff on the left gradually turning to bulletproof ice on the right side (perfect cramponing near the middleish right). the broadway ledges were covered with wind compacted snow almost like alpine ice in places...really nice. Upper kiener's on the other hand was deep powdery snow wallowing. We had to pick our way up the rock to avoid trudging through too much snow. It ended up being a long day but still tons of fun! the position is just incredible up there.


thanks for the beta, now I've got something to do monday


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By coppolillo
Nov 25, 2012

right on, freddy...good job! we're talking about going back to do alexander's to the eighth route, so we'd be in that neighborhood...right on.

what descent did you do? north face? how was it?

ciao man! RC


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By Freddy.Mondale
From Boulder, CO
Nov 25, 2012

we rapped the cables route. There was enough snow to follow tracks down from the summit making the descent super easy! Alexander's might be a bit thin at this point though. We did it about a week or two ago and it has dried up since then. Id say its stil worth a try though!
Happy climbing!


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By HansF
From Jackson, WY
Nov 29, 2012

was there any ice forming on the cable route? Any difficulty finding the eyelets? Thinking about heading up next weekend assuming conditions are good


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By Brian Stefanovic
From Fort Collins, CO
Nov 29, 2012

Just a little bit of snow and ice on the north face. Eye bolts are just fine...


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By HansF
From Jackson, WY
Nov 30, 2012

cool, thanks!


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