longshot. but here we go

I don't have any real "partners" and I'm having trouble crossing the 11b barrier. Im trying to find someone who will show me, in one or two sessions, what it takes training wise to become 5.12. Il trade beer, money, some good herbs. anything. Just for a little bit of insight. Sure i can watch all the videos in the world but I learn best being shown in person. I climb at both ET and Denver Movement. Thanks!

I'm not sure if I'm the guy to get you climbing 5.12 but I've found that the best improvement for me comes from a two part system:

1. Observe why you fell. Do you move inefficiently? Do you over-grip? Are you afraid of falling? Of failing? Do you use good tactics? Do you execute exact beta without hesitation? How are you initiating your movement? Do you use momentum well? Can you be aggressive or zen as called upon by the nature of the route or crux? I would look at training/strength as an issue only after looking at the other stuff. At the 5.12 level pumping out is often just a mismanagement of the earlier issues (at least in my experience, maybe it will be different for you).

2. Address biggest issue (or two) in part 1. Make a plan to improve the weak link (or two) until one of the other issues becomes the mode of failure.

Repeat.

I know this sounds overly basic but it really directs what will work for the individual rather than just trying random things, doing pull ups, eating paleo, getting swole, or whatever else is rad these days.

So...

What 12s are you working so far? Why do you fall on them? How can you directly address that issue (or issues)?

Once you know, you can get more useful advice on how to improve the weakness. At this point most of it might be really generic and it's hard to say what will help you. If it's hard to answer the first part, ask those around you, watch video of yourself, or observe others and how it's different from your climbing.

All that said though, I'm no pro either. Take my advice with a grain of salt. But if you're willing to pay for advice maybe buy a session with Justen Sjong (or someone similar)? I thought it was really helpful to have an experienced opinion on what would most benefit my climbing.

Boulder at least once a week. I know it sucks but it's good for you. After you can physically pull the moves, work on endurance. The biggest gain I saw for me was after I climbed 2500 feet with 10 miles of hiking in a day. My endurance shot through the roof.

In general, improving your technique will make you a better climber faster, especially in the 5.11 and under range. Spending a little cash on a real coach will pay much bigger dividends than anything you'll get here. (Just sayin')

Coach Justen Sjong

EDIT: Not sure why his email got deleted. I'll try again:

justen@climbingsensei.com
www.climbingsensei.com

I'm curious, what's a training session like? Does he watch you and then give you some sort of tailored work out routine? Any average joes that were able to bust through a plateau because of one training session?

I just wanted to be shown once or twice. And I appreciate all of your comments. The first response was full of insight thank you!

J.D.D. wrote:I'm curious, what's a training session like? Does he watch you and then give you some sort of tailored work out routine? Any average joes that were able to bust through a plateau because of one training session?

I don't know if anyone burst through a plateau because of one session, but I suppose it's possible. But it's not a "training session" as most people think about them. Most people think, "If I was just stronger..." but that's not generally what's holding them back.

Justen is a technique, movement and mental coach. He'll have you work on increasing strength when needed, but that's #4 on the list and you do it as homework.

I went to him after 30 years of climbing, a solid trad (static) background and a desire to improve my sport climbing. The short story is that he changed the way I climb in a half-dozen fundamental ways.

Early on he said, "You move like a robot." Boy, I had to stuff my ego in a hole and listen...

Both Steve and Don have some solid advice.
Also one thing to keep in mind is how long you've been climbing.

Unless you're genetically gifted in the finger strength and power to weight realm I'd say most folks will spend a few years doing what Steve and Don suggest before they start routinely ticking 12-

All good suggestions. Consider training. Particularly a periodized, regimented approach (check out the Rock Climber's Training Manual).

Steve gave you some great advice, and he should know: I've only climbed with him twice so far, but I've seen him dispatch 5.12+ with ease. I just want to add that if you're climbing at ET and Movement, there're tons of 5.12 climbers at both gyms. Try talking to any one of them and ask them nicely for some advice. Most of climbers are pretty friendly (most of them...), they probably won't hesitate to offer you some tips. If they're willing, have them watch you climb a route or two and see if they have any suggestions on what you need to work on. But of course, if you have money for a private session with a pro, that's even better.

Without knowing your true weakness, most of us on the Internet will probably tell you to do something that worked for us in the past: hangboarding, bouldering, campusboard training, ARCing, etc. But what worked for us may or may not work for you. You mentioned that you've only been climbing for 2+ years, so doing any of these will most likely help your climbing in some fashion. But if you can find out what your true weakness is and focus on that, you'll get more bam for your buck in terms of your effort vs. your improvement. Self analysis can be tricky though, especially when you don't know what you don't know. That's why it's good to have someone with experience to look at the way you climb and narrow down your weakness. But also realize that not every good climber is good with analyzing someone else's weakness: a technical climber will easily see a lack of technique in others, while a powerful climber tend to see a lack of strength. So it's good to get more than one opinion and see if there's a consensus.

Another plug for Justen and working with a coach in general. He is an amazing coach who is able to watch someone climb and then figure out what is holding them back and give them one suggestion to improve. I have improved my climbing just by overhearing him say things to other climbers such as "Lean into the positiveness of the hold". I still think about that when I climb. As the other poster said, prepare to check your ego at the door. One thing that was holding me back (and still does), is I stop trying if I think I'm not doing it technically correctly. He had me work on "bringing the GRRRRRRR!". i.e. I need to push hard when I feel like it's starting to fall apart.

If you don't have a coach, I think the How to climb 5.12 book is a good resource on what it takes to crack into the next level. It's a combination of pushing hard, improving movement patterns, training systematically and mental tactics. It's a lot to bring together, so don't beat yourself up if you don't make the jump immediately. Most of the best routes in the world are 5.10 or under, so you are already in a position to enjoy a lifetime of climbing.

J.D.D. wrote:I'm curious, what's a training session like? Does he watch you and then give you some sort of tailored work out routine? Any average joes that were able to bust through a plateau because of one training session?

I agree with what John said -

John Byrnes wrote: I don't know if anyone burst through a plateau because of one session, but I suppose it's possible. But it's not a "training session" as most people think about them. Most people think, "If I was just stronger..." but that's not generally what's holding them back. Justen is a technique, movement and mental coach. He'll have you work on increasing strength when needed, but that's #4 on the list and you do it as homework.

For me it was changing mental states. I tend to have a very mellow personality and he illustrated how effective it was to switch gears and become aggressive/explosive... and back, sometimes multiple times on a single route, as each section called for it. So despite having an infant at home, getting out less, and being physically weaker/fatter than before I seem to be climbing as well as ever so I think it was really beneficial.

Also, to the OP, I was actually asking non-rhetorically about what routes you've been doing and why you think you're falling... if you're willing to share. Maybe we could give you some better thoughts. I'd be willing to climb sometime too if you're interested. I usually climb at RJ north or outside.

Random thought: I think 5.12 tends to be much more strength and endurance oriented indoors than out. Especially at movement/ET where every move tends to be about the same difficulty. So if you're working them inside, you might see more benefit to improving that aspect of your climbing (though the other things still count, especially pacing, fear, movement initiation, etc.)

This spring I injured a finger and took 3 months off. I wasn't particularly in good shape or bad shape at the time of the injury, however I was psyched on being fit in a general sense. I started running, trail running to be specific. I would drop and do sets of push ups every mile or so. When I returned to the rock the first thing I noticed was how much core strength I had, how much lung capacity I gained and how much smoother my breathing was. After easing into some "mileage pitches" I did the hardest route I've ever done in a handful of burns.
Above all just have fun.

It's hard to do but I've found cutting out beer/ fast food has pushed me through my plateau. Along with a solid training routine with periodized increase in intensity.

Lots of good advise, above. Just remember what works for one person might and might not work for another. Ultimately you will have to figure out what works best for you.

That said, climbing with good and supportive partners as well as having fun (as Ben just said) are the most important ingredients. I have chased grades before, and it burned me out.

If you climb a lot, and push yourself a little, the .12s will probably come.

climbing friend,

become a radical vegan activist, and punish your fingers with many difficult boulder and hangboard sessions, and do not be afraid.