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Long's Peak

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Chasm View Wall 
Diamond, The 
Keyboard of the Winds 
Lower East Face 
North Face/Ridge 
Palisades 
Ship's Prow 
Upper East Face 
West Face 

Long's Peak 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,256'
Location: 40.25459, -105.61602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,656,830
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006
Forecast:
Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Chance of Rain
48° | 34°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
51° | 36°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
53° | 35°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
56° | 40°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
55° | 39°
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A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.

Description 

This is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair.

The peak itself consists of a variety of different subsections for which it may be more helpful to reorganize this section. There is the vertical arena of the Diamond, the Lower East Face, The Upper East Face, Chasm View Wall, the North Face/Ridge, The Southern Ridge(s), the West Face, Ship's Prow, Keyboard of the Winds, & The Palisades.

A hike up to the eastern cirque of Long's is probably one of the more scenic hikes in the Front Range.

Despite the popularity of the peak and the associated heavy travel, there are still plenty of loose rocks in here. Some have lost body parts to this. Be careful.

The weather here can be the crux. Often storms will surprise the unwary as it comes hidden by the bulk of the peak. Some have lost a few toes, some have lost more.

Getting off the peak can be an adventure in and of itself. There is the Keyhole route around the West side, the North Face scramble & rappel(s), the D7 rappels, and even Keplinger's Couloir.


Getting There 

There are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance.


Webcam 

www.nps.gov/common/commonspot/customcf/webcam/dsp_webcam_ima>>>


54 Total Routes


['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',5],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',9],['5.12',7],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long's Peak:
The Notch Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Upper East Face
Kiener's Route   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   Upper East Face
Cable Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   North Face/Ridge
The Beaver   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3000'   Upper East Face
Keyhole Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   North Face/Ridge
Stettner's Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Lower East Face
Kor's Door   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'   Lower East Face
Casual Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   The Diamond
Directissima   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Chasm View Wall
Forrest Finish   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Black Dagger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   The Diamond
Curving Vine   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
The Obelisk   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
D7   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
D1   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, Grade V   The Diamond
Ariana   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Hearts and Arrows   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
Bologna Pony   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'   Ship's Prow
Browse More Classics in Long's Peak

Featured Route For Long's Peak
Eric Everson on the 1st pitch of D7 on the Diamond.

D7 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : The Diamond
After the Casual Route and Pervertical Sanctuary, this is probably the most "straight-forward" Diamond Route, although the free climbing rating is rather stiff (5.11c or d). The crux is short and protects well, and is easily aided. Climbers who find the Casual Route jammed, and don't have enough big gear for Pervertical, should consider attempting this at 5.9 or 5.10 C1 (or free), but plan on a longer day if you aid much (the entire climb is ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Long's Peak
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News
Jul 9 Access Fund is hiring in Boulder 0
Jun 11 New Women's Speed Record on the Nose   5
Jun 7 A Tribute to Jeff Lowe   4
May 15 MP Mobile App: Partnered with Black Diamond and now Free   4
May 12 New Feature: Improve This Page   3
May 1 New Yosemite Bigwall Printed Guide Book Now Available 0

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Photos of Long's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Long's Peak-Autumn. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Long's Peak-Autumn.
Photo by Blitzo.
Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield, 2004.
Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield,...
The Diamond at sunrise.
The Diamond at sunrise.
The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.
The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.
There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.
There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.
Aerial view of the Diamond.
Aerial view of the Diamond.
Another shameless sunrise shot.  Twin Sisters is the ridge in the clouds.
Another shameless sunrise shot. Twin Sisters is t...
Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amazing that it will make grown, manly men weep . . . .
Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amaz...
Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.
Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.
Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.
Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.
The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: James Beissel.
The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: ...
The Keyhole.
The Keyhole.
The Diamond, late September.
The Diamond, late September.
Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiting for The Diamond to warm up for another couple weeks....
Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiti...
Early morning light.
Early morning light.
After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy  and cold! :) <br />
After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy and co...
West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08.
West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08...
The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.
The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.
Pika near Long's Peak. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Pika near Long's Peak.
Photo by Blitzo.
Moon Keyhole
Moon Keyhole
A look at the North Face.
A look at the North Face.
A nice fall day.
A nice fall day.
The summit of Longs showing both the Homestretch and Kiener's Route, as seen from the east summit of Meeker, 6/23/07. Climbers can be seen on top.
The summit of Longs showing both the Homestretch a...
"The Big Picture." <br /> <br />This is actually 1/2 the size of the original scan of an old 6 X 7 Provia slide of mine. <br /> <br />It should still be plenty large enough to trace every route, find every hold/ledge on the face. <br /> <br />Enjoy
"The Big Picture."

This is actually 1/2 the size ...
The cirque in early 2013.
The cirque in early 2013.
East face of Long's in early June.
East face of Long's in early June.
Summit register.
Summit register.
The East Face of Longs at Sunrise.
The East Face of Longs at Sunrise.
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
The boulder field.
The boulder field.
One more reason why sunrises on Long's Peak never fail to amaze.
One more reason why sunrises on Long's Peak never ...
Long's Peak seen at left, from Mills Lake.
Long's Peak seen at left, from Mills Lake.
On the way to Chasm Lake.
On the way to Chasm Lake.
Long's Peak. <br />Photo by Blitzo.
Long's Peak.
Photo by Blitzo.
Legendary Czech climber Petr Practel's topo of his 8 hour traverse of the mountain at age 67. <br /> <br /> <br />
BETA PHOTO: Legendary Czech climber Petr Practel's topo of his...
Moonrise through the Keyhole.
Moonrise through the Keyhole.
Winter ascent, Long's Peak, 1-4-13.
Winter ascent, Long's Peak, 1-4-13.
Long's Peak as seen from the approach to Arrowhead and McHenry's. Also the scene on the CO state quarter dollar.
Long's Peak as seen from the approach to Arrowhead...
The Key Hole. <br />Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
The Key Hole.
Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
Eddie coming up the homestretch after a marathon morning on Long's.
Eddie coming up the homestretch after a marathon m...
My partner finishing the OW pitch on Pevertical.
My partner finishing the OW pitch on Pevertical.
Rap ring on Cable Route (north side)
Rap ring on Cable Route (north side)
The summit of Long's Peak.
The summit of Long's Peak.
The Loft.
The Loft.
SW side of Longs, showing the homestretch and the Palisades to the right.  People are visible at the top.
SW side of Longs, showing the homestretch and the ...
Looking straight up the N. Chimney and Diamond.  The Mills Glacier is pretty cooked by now.  Aug 15, 2007.
BETA PHOTO: Looking straight up the N. Chimney and Diamond. T...
Chasm Lake trail.
Chasm Lake trail.
This place does not suck.
This place does not suck.
High above Peacock Lake.
High above Peacock Lake.
Sunrise on the Diamond.  Photo by L Smith.
Sunrise on the Diamond. Photo by L Smith.
Long's Peak from the East.
Long's Peak from the East.
West Face on the Left.
West Face on the Left.
Long's Peak from Lumpy Ridge.  Photo by James Beissel, September 2008.
Long's Peak from Lumpy Ridge. Photo by James Beis...
Comments on Long's Peak Add Comment
Show which comments
By Nate Oakes
Apr 5, 2007

Thinking of doing an overnight/full-moon ascent of the Cables Route, does anyone know of the snow conditions?

By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jun 26, 2007

Conditions on the Diamond and in RMNP are available on Colorado Mountain School's web site www.totalclimbing.com under park conditions.

By aaron voreis
Aug 29, 2009

Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:

Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff

We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please call Aaron at 970-596-9041 if you have any ideas or saw the incident. My HUGE apologies if anybody was hit by anything.

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 13, 2010

Has anyone been up there recently? I'm curious about snow conditions on the north face - any useful info regarding a ski descent would be greatly appreciated.

By Chris Beh
Apr 13, 2010

Here's the Long's Peak webcam which shows the N Face:

ns.www.nps.gov.edgesuite.net/featurecontent/romo/bmvc_cam.ht>>>

By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2010

Nice, thanks!

By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2010

Has anyone been up on the Diamond lately and is willing to give a conditions report? The forecast has been way high for thunderstorms lately. Has it played out that way? Has it been wet? Thanks!

By Armin
From: Arvada, CO
Aug 11, 2010

Adam, was up there last Wednesday, and everything was wet to pouring on the routes, might be a little more dry now. I did Perverical, and it was the driest of all the routes within my partner and mine's abilities. Ariana looked drier if that's your grade. Cheers

By Jeremy Franz
From: Berthoud, CO
Nov 11, 2013

Webcam link has moved to: www.nps.gov/common/commonspot/customcf/webcam/dsp_webcam_ima>>>

By Galen Bercaw 1
May 16, 2014

I dropped an older generation Black Diamond Cobra ice tool off of Broadway somewhere around Kiener's route. It has the Android clipping leash (but obviously not the part that goes around your wrist). If you find it, please give me a call, I'd love to have it back. (970)412-0816. $100 reward!