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Long's Peak

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Chasm View Wall 
Diamond, The 
Keyboard of the Winds 
Lower East Face 
North Face/Ridge 
Palisades 
Ship's Prow 
Upper East Face 
West Face 

Long's Peak  


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 14,256'
Location: 40.25459, -105.61602 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,776,747
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Sep 8, 2006
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Description 

This is the highest peak in Rocky Mountain National Park. It is one of the 54 14,000-foot peaks of Colorado. It is a prized playground for the budding hiker/mountaineer, the intermediate to advanced rock climber, the intermediate to advanced mixed/ice climber, the middle-altitude big wall aid climber; and it even sports a few high-end rock routes. Some still come to try to free some of the old aid routes here. Most adventures involve most of a day to a multi-day affair.

The peak itself consists of a variety of different subsections for which it may be more helpful to reorganize this section. There is the vertical arena of the Diamond, the Lower East Face, The Upper East Face, Chasm View Wall, the North Face/Ridge, The Southern Ridge(s), the West Face, Ship's Prow, Keyboard of the Winds, & The Palisades.

A hike up to the eastern cirque of Long's is probably one of the more scenic hikes in the Front Range.

Despite the popularity of the peak and the associated heavy travel, there are still plenty of loose rocks in here. Some have lost body parts to this. Be careful.

The weather here can be the crux. Often storms will surprise the unwary as it comes hidden by the bulk of the peak. Some have lost a few toes, some have lost more.

Getting off the peak can be an adventure in and of itself. There is the Keyhole route around the West side, the North Face scramble & rappel(s), the D7 rappels, and even Keplinger's Couloir.

Getting There 

There are many ways to access this peak. This peak lies NW of Denver by 70 miles/1.5 hrs. From Denver, take US 36 to CO Hwy 7 in Lyons, and head N at the top of the canyon or US 36 into RMNP. Likely the most common is from CO Hwy 7, aka Peak-to-Peak Hwy, and the Long's Area trailhead. This approach will be at least 5 miles. You can approach via Glacier Gorge, Storm Pass, Boulder Brook/N Long's Peak Trail/Granite Pass, & even the Wild Basin entrance.

Webcam 

nps.gov/common/commonspot/cust...

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.8 miles from here

55 Total Routes

['4 Stars',17],['3 Stars',19],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',11],['5.7',5],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',9],['5.11',9],['5.12',8],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',2],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long's Peak:
The Notch Couloir   Mod. Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade III   Upper East Face
Kiener's Route   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Easy Snow     Trad, Snow, Alpine, Grade II   Upper East Face
Cable Route   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   North Face/Ridge
The Beaver   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, Alpine, 3000'   Upper East Face
Keyhole Ridge   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   North Face/Ridge
Stettner's Ledges   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Lower East Face
Kor's Door   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches, 550'   Lower East Face
Casual Route   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches   The Diamond
Directissima   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches   Chasm View Wall
Forrest Finish   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
Pervertical Sanctuary   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Black Dagger   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 3 pitches   The Diamond
The Obelisk   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 600'   The Diamond
Curving Vine   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Yellow Wall   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R     Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
D7   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
D1   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, Grade V   The Diamond
Ariana   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   The Diamond
Hearts and Arrows   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   The Diamond
Bologna Pony   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, Sport, Alpine, 3 pitches, 280'   Ship's Prow
Browse More Classics in Long's Peak

Featured Route For Long's Peak
Traversing Broadway up to the Notch.   Climber: Co...

The Notch Couloir Mod. Snow  CO : Alpine Rock : ... : Upper East Face
This is another classic mountaineering/alpine route on Long's. It climbs the cool, windy couloir that splits the East Face from the prominent Notch to Broadway It is a bit more difficult than the Kiener's Route, and requires a larger amount of skills. I think that it is a more asthetic line than Kiener's, though, and is more of an accomplishment to get to the top of.As opposed to Kiener's, which can be climbed in almost any condition, this route needs to b...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Local Information for Long's Peak
Photos of Long's Peak Slideshow Add Photo
Long's Peak-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
Long's Peak-Autumn. Photo by Blitzo.
A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.
A stream of headlamps headed up Long's.
Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield,...
Watching a storm over Estes from the Boulderfield,...
The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.
The Diamond from The Iron Gates on Meeker.
There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.
There is climbing to be had at the Keyhole.
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Sunrise from Chasm Lake.
Aerial view of the Diamond.
Aerial view of the Diamond.
Another shameless sunrise shot.  Twin Sisters is t...
Another shameless sunrise shot. Twin Sisters is t...
Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amaz...
Sometimes the sunrises here are so incredibly amaz...
Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.
Sunrise over Chasm Lake from Mill's Glacier.
Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.
Chasm Lake sunrise from the bivy.
The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: ...
The Diamond from Glacier Basin campground. Photo: ...
West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08...
West face of Long's from the summit of Otis, 11/08...
The Diamond, late September.
The Diamond, late September.
The Keyhole.
The Keyhole.
Moon Keyhole
Moon Keyhole
Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiti...
Conditions on 8 June 08. Looks like we'll be waiti...
Early morning light.
Early morning light.
After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy  and co...
After an October snowstorm...fluffy, windy and co...
A nice fall day.
A nice fall day.
The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.
The south side of Long.s as seen from the Loft.
A look at the North Face.
A look at the North Face.
Pika near Long's Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Pika near Long's Peak. Photo by Blitzo.
Exposure much?
Exposure much?

Show All 56 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Long's Peak Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 19, 2014
By Nate Oakes
Apr 5, 2007
Thinking of doing an overnight/full-moon ascent of the Cables Route, does anyone know of the snow conditions?
By Chris O'Connor
From: bouldertown, co
Jun 26, 2007
Conditions on the Diamond and in RMNP are available on Colorado Mountain School's web site totalclimbing.com under park conditions.
By aaron voreis
Aug 29, 2009
Help! Yesterday (8/28/09) we rapped in from Chasm View and left our packs on Broadway. After the route, my pack was missing and it appears that Marmots dragged it off of Broadway and sent it careening down the Crack of Delight area! I am missing the following:

Blue Granite Gear Pack
Red Marmot sleeping bag in red stuff sack
Yellow Dana Designs shelter
Leki Trekking Pole
Other misc. stuff

We searched for quite awhile down on Mills and could not find more than a couple of random items. Please call Aaron at 970-596-9041 if you have any ideas or saw the incident. My HUGE apologies if anybody was hit by anything.
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 13, 2010
Has anyone been up there recently? I'm curious about snow conditions on the north face - any useful info regarding a ski descent would be greatly appreciated.
By Chris Beh
Apr 13, 2010
Here's the Long's Peak webcam which shows the N Face:

ns.www.nps.gov.edgesuite.net/f...
By beavs
From: Ft. Collins, CO
Apr 21, 2010
Nice, thanks!
By adam brink
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 27, 2010
Has anyone been up on the Diamond lately and is willing to give a conditions report? The forecast has been way high for thunderstorms lately. Has it played out that way? Has it been wet? Thanks!
By Armin
From: Glenwood Springs, CO
Aug 11, 2010
Adam, was up there last Wednesday, and everything was wet to pouring on the routes, might be a little more dry now. I did Perverical, and it was the driest of all the routes within my partner and mine's abilities. Ariana looked drier if that's your grade. Cheers
By Jeremy Franz
From: Berthoud, CO
Nov 11, 2013
Webcam link has moved to: nps.gov/common/commonspot/cust...
By Galen Bercaw 1
May 16, 2014
I dropped an older generation Black Diamond Cobra ice tool off of Broadway somewhere around Kiener's route. It has the Android clipping leash (but obviously not the part that goes around your wrist). If you find it, please give me a call, I'd love to have it back. (970)412-0816. $100 reward!
By Jralph
Aug 19, 2014
If anyone goes up the Diamond via the North Chimney soon and finds a #1.5 (silver) Wild Country helium Friend about 20-30ft below the Broadway ledge in the North Chimney, I would greatly appreciate getting that back. My partner refused to take the time to take it out even after I put him on belay. I would hate to have to take the cost of that cam out of his flesh. I'm sure I could convince him to buy you a 6 pack of your favorite beer.