Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New - School of Rock
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
High Peaks
Select Route:
Abuela Cochinita  
Andy's Sunset Punctuation Pinnacle 
Anvil, The 
Babies On the Ceiling 
Burgundy Dome 
Burtons Below 
Clean Sweep 
Condor Condiment 
Cone Regular Route, The 
Dragonfly Dome, Regular Route 
Egg Shell 
Erectile Dysfunction 
Feather Canyon 
Freedom Dome, Regular Route 
Hand Me Down 
Little Javelina 
Long's Folly: Regular Route 
Lost Fortune 
Lump, The 
Operation Pinnacles Freedom 
Photographer's Delight 
Piglet Pinnacle Southeast Face 
Scandal 
sponge left side 
swept away 
Tuff Dome Regular Route  
Unmentionable, The 
What I've Been Missing Out On 

Long's Folly: Regular Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 95'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 100
Submitted By: Jason Ogasian on Jul 16, 2013
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
BETA PHOTO: Long's Folly Route
  • Raptor Closures! MORE INFO >>>
  • Emergency Closure Announced - Resurrection Wall MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Follow the bolts to traverse left into the obvious chimney facing the High Peaks trail. Climb up the chimney to an optional intermediary belay (with chains). Continue straight up to two rap anchors on the summit.

    Rapping from the summit with a 70m rope didn't leave very much extra on the ground. Be sure to check that your ends are down or, to be safe, use the intermediary rap anchor if you have a 60.


    Location 

    Approach: hike north from the junction of the High Peaks trail and the Juniper Canyon trail about 0.4 miles (there is an outhouse at this junction, which is about 2 miles and 1200' elevation gain from the Bear Gulch parking lot). The trail will dip down, and then climb back up steeply, up some steps cut into the rock and a railing. You will see Long's Folly on the left marked by the obvious chimney bulging out of its face.


    Protection 

    5 bolts protect the traverse to the chimney. Medium to large cams can be used to protect the chimney to the first anchor.
    Above the optional belay is low grade (5.1-5.2) slab with no bolts for about 30 feet to the summit. It's a bit run out but a #2 BD C4 can be placed in a pocket about 15 feet up if desired.



    Photos of Long's Folly: Regular Route Slideshow Add Photo
    Setting up an anchor at the optional belay.
    Setting up an anchor at the optional belay.
    Comments on Long's Folly: Regular Route Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -