This tower is on the south side of the road, maybe half a mile up from the Maverick Buttress routes. Bjornstads DRII says the tower is the westernmost, though its not... the main buttress of the head of the canyon is actually west of the gap separating Mavericks Buttress from said buttress. The tower is easily recognized when coming down the canyon (as in the photo).
Drive up Longs Canyon about half a mile past the routes on Mavericks Buttress.
The route begins on the north west side of the tower above the road. Find an easier way up through the lower cliffs to get to the base.Pitch 1 = a bolt ladder with a few moves of C1 in the crack gets you to a hanging belay.Pitch 2 = a long crack of varying size, but focussed on blue tcu's Conceivably, you could link p2 and p3, but we broke it up as we were running out of gear. Pitch 3 has some sandy free moves, so you wanna mitigate the rope drag. Its gonna be pretty hard to carry all that gear....[more]Browse More Classics in UT
Did you sign the summit register? Chad Greedy and I did the first Accent of this tower via the east side in the mid-late 90's. I'll look up the beta and post it as another route later. We left a register in a pothole near the summit. It is tied in through a tread in the pothole. We called this "The Tower of Doom"10a A0 . You can rap the route to the East as well.