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Longest/Most Difficult Approach for a Climb

Original Post
David Tennant · · Denver, CO · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 2,036

I was curious what was the longest or most difficult approach you've ever done for a climb, successful or not. Bushwhacking, off trail, not very good directions, etc.

While exploring the northern part of Red River Gorge with a buddy, we decided to try to find a remote, specific trad route that was supposed to have a 30 min to an hour approach. Basically there was a description that said (paraphrased) "After about 30 mins on the right there'll be a large boulder and at that point leave the trail and head left uphill." It turned out that about every 5 mins there ended up being a large boulder, and so eventually we decided to head uphill and search, but after a few hours of searching and trying at different boulders that fit the description, we never were able to find it, and gave up.

I'd be happier to hear about approaches that were more successful, but difficult.

Bill Kirby · · Keene New York · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 480

I hiked upstairs to the second floor of Earth Treks once

EeT · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 0

Early spring went to scout a line but also brought gear in case we could climb...ended up bush wacking and trudging through waist deep snow for 6 hours round trip..found the climb but had no steam to even pull out the gear.. it was a blast saw some sweet lines for the future

Andrew Gram · · Salt Lake City, UT · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 3,725
The Siren

This previously unclimbed tower has the toughest one i've ever done.

The first catch is that the only way to get there is to raft through Desolation Canyon, which is a 5-7 day 80 mile class III whitewater river that you need a permit for.

Once you've sussed out the river trip part of the approach, the rest still isn't easy. 2 hours up a side slot canyon with a 5.10 highball boulder problem at a dry waterfall and a bunch of 4th class. We left a pin anchor with rap slings so that may make the boulder problem protected or even french free now, and you can rap on the way out.

Big adventure still waiting for a second ascent. The climbing is pretty wild.
Thatcher · · Seattle, WA · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 5

The Pickets in the North Cascades

Suburban Roadside · · Abovetraffic on Hudson · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 2,419

Lone Peak Cirque, Utah,~car to car in 39 hours Um no wait?
I've tried six times, & I still haven't made it to the 'good' bouldering @ Bald Rock Ct, ;~P

how do do that link thing from a tablet?

Dylan Pike wrote:What route were you trying to climb?
Where I lived / climbed there was a very hard 5.10 called The Triple Overhangs, so that was our target

6/87, . .not quite to the top. . . rapped in the dark as the moon came up, after climbing what is now called " Vertical Overhangs"

We had first gen. Camalots, only #1 - 2 - red & yellow (don't think we had a #3)
that were made of three piece stems that had to be epoxied together.
Ridged stem friends, - #'s 1- 4 some brand new half sizes.that were the hot new gear. . .wires, &
slung Hexes ,& tube chocks.
With Twin 9 mil 165ft ropes.
Dylan Pike · · Knoxville, TN · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 488

What route were you trying to climb?

Ryan Canny · · Illinois · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 20

Mine would have to be either my first time to Seneca did 4 hours of hiking and scrambling all over and just really didn't know where the climbs I wanted to do was at never did climb that day but the next weekend a long time local took me around witch helped a lot. The other was my first trip to hidden rocks Virginia after an hour of hiking and bushwaking we found the rock. I was really tired at this point though as I brought my haul bag with all my gear because I was with a friend who was just getting into climbing and was not sure if I was going to top rope or if he was a competent belayer for me to lead just ended up top roping one climb that he wouldn't finish because it was to high he quit climbing after that I did get a free harness from him since he didn't want to climb anymore after that.

Taylor-B. · · Valdez, AK · Joined Oct 2009 · Points: 3,186

Anything in Alaska!

This picture still makes me cry.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65

Not long or difficult, but I've managed to get lost in Tuolumne, Red Rocks, the Sierra Needles, Mt. Lemmon, and probably a few other places.

B Jolley · · Utah · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 172

I would think the approach to Olympus Mons would be the longest, most difficult.

Grumpy Gym Climber · · Sacramento · Joined Mar 2013 · Points: 10

Although nothing compared to Alaska or some foreign countries, the approach to Mt. Conness is 4 hours or so over some quite steep 4th class terrain. This is fairly long for a somewhat popular, well known and highly rated climb(s)

Daniel Worley · · Big South Fork, TN · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 90

When looking for new areas in the Big South Fork, the only rule is that you will carry the rack and not use it. I have had some tough approaches but the Big South Fork is a consistent torture device unless you are going to more highly trafficked areas. Rattle snakes and copperheads all day long!

Big South Fork rattle snake den. Photo by Jeff Noffsinger

Jay Eggleston · · Denver · Joined Feb 2003 · Points: 21,381

The Outback at Thunder Ridge in Colorado was both long and difficult.

Ben Pontecorvo · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 155

Country Club Crack was brutal.. all those turns make you carsick, the one left turn can be hard if there is traffic, and you might not even get to park right under the climb.

In all seriousness, the Bugaboos kicked my ass with a rack and 10 days of food on my back, but easy direction wise.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Thatcher wrote:The Pickets in the North Cascades
^^^^^^
YUP. Schwacking, route finding, veggie belays, some stream crossings, a ferry if you're coming in that direction.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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