Start on the left side of the Crooked Arrow Spire.
P1-5.8-Climb up 20' of "solid" chockstones. (Once on top of chockstones place a piece of gear high in a crack on the left to avoid horrid rope drag.) Walk/scramble to back of chimney, climb 3 cracks to a intermediate belay(we stopped here but to do the route in 2 pitches continue 50' to a belay in the col between the spire and the wall.
P2-A1-Climb Bolts and fixed pins with 2 gear placements to summit. We counted 31 bolts/fixed pins. The last two 1/4" bolts don't have hangers but are on a slab and are pointing upwards.
Descent- We rapped from the top to the intermediate belay on pitch 1(with two 60m ropes) then to the ground. I don't think you can rap the route with one rope because of the last pitch.
Standard desert rack. 2 ropes.
Apr 6, 2003
Thought the route was great fun ,really liked the classic chimney . the guide book discription is not very accurate .Its two good pitches to the gap, and the bolt ladder is longer(more bolts)
|By Anonymous Coward|
Nov 20, 2003
RE: pitch one; We made it to the gap in one 60 meter pitch. Unique pitch, chimneying and jamming 50 feet back in the chimney. It seemed more like 5.9 R.
|By Andy Roberts|
Oct 12, 2004
Can anyone give a better discription. Eric's old school aid description doesn't make it sound that great. It looks so cool i'd like to know what it's like. Thanks
|By Andrew Gram|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Oct 13, 2004
I did the awful hump to the base a few years ago. The first pitch is an awful looking squeeze chimney. We brought nothing big(not sure if anything would fit) and we were light duty so we bailed.
If you loved leading Honeymoon Chimney on the Priest, the first pitch is for you.
|By Rob Dillon|
May 13, 2005
Chimney to bolt ladder- what more do you want? Go find out.
Not to violate the Guidelines or nuthin, but isn't this stuff supposed to be about adventures?
|By Tom Willard|
From: Avon, CO
May 2, 2009
There is somewhat of a trail to the viewers left of the spire which avoids both cliff bands. Look for the large boulder just off the road to find the trails start.
|By clay meier|
Apr 25, 2010
The chimmney is by no means R rated. You can get a SOLID piece about every 6-8 feet. the longest runout was about 15' on very easy terrain. You dont need big gear either. Great route.
|By Sam Lightner, Jr.|
From: Lander, WY
May 21, 2010
Liz Wattenberg and I replaced many of the relics on this thing with modern ASCA stuff yesterday. Of the 15-20 bolts on the ladder I think I redid like 8 or 9. I left the most interesting museum pieces but set it up so if they fail you would have a hard time zippering the whole thing. The top requires a body length of easy free climbing. The new summit anchor is just under the cap rock as the stones on t he summit are pretty weak and not actually connected to the tower. Most of the pieces I pulled were still difficult to get out. However one, a pin about 25 feet up, was essentially an aluminum RURP. It came out scary-easy. Oh, I spaced a couple of the pulls as I rapped off (we were running way-late). If you go up, please take a hammer and a funkness and yank those two that are next to new bolts. Sorry about that...
A set of nuts is useful on the last pitch.
My advice to anyone doing this is to NOT try and walk straight up the scree slop from the road. I ruined our day by doing this. Go up the draw a mile or so before finding a vegetated slope that comes up on the climber left as Tom said.
Interesting route, unique setting, and wild summit. It will be sad when this one topples over!
|By Peter Blank|
From: Grand Junction, Colorado
May 24, 2012
We broke the climb into three pitches. Up shitty stones at base (the hardest climbing of the route) and into the back of the chimney. This got the belayer out of the sun and into the shade. Then another longish pitch up the fantastic chimney to the base of the bolt ladder. One more to the top. I took a single set to #4 and a set of stoppers and thought this was perfect. For the top pitch take a .75 and or 1 for just a few feet off the ground and a set of small stoppers. Leave everything else at the base of the bolt ladder. Great route on a hot day.
Aug 13, 2012
Looks like Peter Blank sums it up well regarding pitch breakdown and gear, except I found a double set of cams practical for P2. Also I carried a #5 and used it (P2), but there were probably alternatives. We intended to do the route in 2 pitches but ended up adding a belay as he describes...it made a lot of sense for rope management and sun protection, and then P2 is fairly long and really friggin good.
|By paul bucher|
From: moab, utah
Sep 12, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1
did it 9-9-12 with drake and taylor. go .9 miles past castle valley turn off and take a right on the dirt road. if you have a real good 4x4 you could drive to the trail head. otherwise park in as far as possible and walk the wash to the giant lone boulder. gently saunter up the good trail that follows that dirt fin to the mesa. a few 5.9 moves puts you into a dirt shoot chimney. good belay in back at the base of the business. long classic chimney to a good ledge and belay. like everyone above says one or two cams and one or two stoppers. my frostworks sentinel nuts worked awesome! bolt ladder, some small bieners like nanos may be helpful. it was a little hard to clip some of the old hangers. bomber rap anchors on top. THANKS SAM!!! cleaned the remaining old stuff. rap the route. stroll back the way you came. great route. took the three of us 10.5 hours house to house (moab).
|By Sarah Meiser|
From: Boulder, Colorado
Oct 22, 2012
There is a scary chockstone about 2/3 of the way up the chimney that moves and looks quite precarious. Don't yard on it! Its easy to stem over.
|By Zeb Rafaker|
Oct 7, 2013
Bring a light rack for this one. We brought and old #4 and used it but could have been fine with out it. Bring a BD #1 and .4 for the last pitch.
From: moab, utah
Jul 9, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1
If you climb this route you should bring your Doctor Dre Beats speaker and Ipod to do some soul slackin' on the neon yellow highline that's fixed to the mesa! Don't forget your GoPro!
|By Steven Lucarelli|
From: Moab, UT
Jul 17, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A1
Its possible to rap off this route with one 70m rope. The first rap reaches with rope stretch and you'll have to stop at the intermediate belay in the chimney for the last rap to reach.
I used one #1 Camalot and one offset stopper for the last pitch.