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Long Zion Walls that go free 5.12a/C1 or easier?

Original Post
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I'm more interested in the free side of things, but am looking for more long routes that go mostly free. It seems that the books and material on here don't give a lot of information on free climbing. On my list are touchstone, Monkey Finger, maybe space shot, I'll need to do some more research. Moonlight is on the list as well, but it is definitely still a bit hard for me.

ahparker · · Portland, OR · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 45

Check out Sheer Lunacy. Pretty much all goes free at the grades you mentioned and most is much easier. There's one C2 (I believe) pitch that takes a few offset RP's but nothing bad, or there is a 12c variation pitch that is supposed to be great and make a nice french free variation to avoid any aid.

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

just a start

locksmith Dihedral (SP) 12a IV 8-9 pitches one of the best finger cracks i have done

the silmarillion 12a V 1st pitch is 12a there are a few 11+ pitches, one of the best routes in the park. its on the watchman

Shunes buttress 11C ultra classic fingers

Plan B 12b mnt Moroni excellant tight hands through a roof

Voices from the dust 11b mnt Moroni

Monkey finger is amazing

Tatooine 5.11 V its great

Plenty of amazing long 5.12 on kinisva

the sliver back is amazing

Ivory coast is short but amazing.

Sheer lunacy has two amazing 5.11-11+ pitches the 12c has two short cruxes, the first of them is right off the belay and you will fall past the belay. and a sporty traverse. the C2 is 5.13.

Depending on the time of year Moonlight is crowded, dirty and the ledges smell like piss. it is gorgeous but people treat it like a $10 sex worker. A few times a year i clean bags of trash off it.

there are some routes not in the book that have gone up that are some of the best 5.12's in the park. there not my routes to give out but i can ask around.

Karl Kvashay · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 225

Hmm, new routes...best .12s in the park? That piques me…please share! :)

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

they are zacs routes

Karl Kvashay · · Phoenix, AZ · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 225

awesome…. lets rope up soon

Rob WardenSpaceLizard · · las Vegans, the cosmic void · Joined Dec 2011 · Points: 130

agreed karl i miss yay... ethan an i got a pitch for you to send actually.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern Utah Deserts
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