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Long Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Are the Pies Fresh? 
Autumn 
B3 
Back Door to Paris 
Big Country 
Bloodline 
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights 
Cruise Control 
Fear and Loathing in Nada 
Fire and Finess 
Game Boy 
Gift, The 
Gladuator 
Hot September 
Kazi and Mito 
Long Wall Chimney 
Mailbox 
NEPA This 
Next Day Air 
Now I'm Nothing 
Perforator 
Ralph & Bob's 
Rock Caddie 
Rock Wars 
Sacred Geometry 
Snatch, The 
Souders Crack 
Stand and Deliver 
Trinket Man 
Two Step 
Vector Trouble 
Whip It Out 
Yuk 
Unsorted Routes:

Long Wall 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.8446, -83.6686 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 66,176
Administrators: saxfiend, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Chris Chaney on Oct 2, 2006
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Austin Newman climbing Rock Wars

Description 

Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.

The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.

Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.


Getting There 

From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.


33 Total Routes


['4 Stars',8],['3 Stars',12],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',2],['5.9',4],['5.10',7],['5.11',11],['5.12',4],['5.13',1],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',1],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Wall:
Mailbox   5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Autumn   5.9- 5c 17 VI HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
Hot September   5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Cruise Control   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   
Perforator   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Rock Wars   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 120'   
Vector Trouble   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
Boom Boom Out Go The Lights   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   
Fear and Loathing in Nada   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 180'   
Back Door to Paris   5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Next Day Air   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ E3 5c PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   
B3   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- E3 5c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   
Souders Crack   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c R     Trad, 80'   
Game Boy   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- E4 6a     Sport, 140'   
The Gift   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
Are the Pies Fresh?   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 2 pitches, 70110'   
Browse More Classics in Long Wall

Featured Route For Long Wall
C. Chaney starting up the first "pitch."

Vector Trouble 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a  KY : Red River Gorge : Long Wall
Near the left (west) end of Long Wall is this striking orange dihedral above a ledge. Take the leftmost of three cracks to get to the ledge and belay to reduce rope drag. Then fire up the classic dihedral, stemming on good edges and dropping bomber nuts in the finger crack. Don't let the roof intimidate you. You get gear above your head as you edge out to the arete. Pull the exposed lip move on good holds and hike otthe ledge. Walk off left or concoct a rappel down the route....[more]   Browse More Classics in KY

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