Going up Rock Wars. Summer '99.
Long Wall is just that, a long unbroken barrier of Corbin Sandstone that makes up the north wall of the Red River Gorge, just west of the end of what is considered the Middle Gorge. It stretches for over a mile with only one point of top access, and that is at the extreme western end.
The routes are mostly trad, with a few sport and the average length is probably 80 feet. There are a few routes that go to the top, but the hood ornament routes Autumn and Rock Wars unfortunately do not. This only slightly diminishes their allure. Interestingly, many lesser quality routes we completed at Long Wall before these two moderate classics were put up. Why? "They didn't top out" an area hardman explained once.
Long Wall is a great area for adventure, but you can still relax on well travelled routes such as Autumn and Rock Wars as well as the testpiece The Gift and the hardman jaunt B3.
From the iron (arn) bridge on hwy 77 take the gravel road west for a couple miles. Look for the Shield above a left curve in the road. Drive a bit further and look for a well used pulloff on the left with a distinct trail going uphill on the right. The trail is fairly obvious, if tricky all the way to the wall. To get to Autumn, Rock Wars, B3, and BIg Coutnry walk along the cliff right (east). To get to Vector Trouble and the top access walk left. GPS is for the parking area.
Weather station 0.8 miles from here
33 Total Routes
['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',6],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',1]
Browse More Classics in Long Wall
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Wall:
Big Country 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
PG13 Trad, 3 pitches, 150'
Mailbox 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Autumn 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Perforator 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Rock Wars 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Next Day Air 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 2 pitches, 100'
B3 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PG13 Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Game Boy 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport, 140'
The Gift 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Featured Route For Long Wall
Autumn 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c KY
: Red River Gorge
: Long Wall
Climb up the tan and orange rock (perhaps the name comes from this?) in a corner formed by a very thick left-facing flake. The crux is somewhere around midway to the anchors and is hand-size dependent. This route and it's neighbor, Rock Wars, are two of the nicest moderate Trad routes in the entire gorge. This climb was originally rated 5.8+ in the 1980's Martin Hackworth books, but was very strenuous and physical at the grade. Most climbers now refer to this as 5.9....[more] Browse More Classics in KY
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