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Long Wall
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Long Wall Chimney 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown early ascent
Season: Faces East
Page Views: 760
Submitted By: Tony B on Feb 13, 2007
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The start of Long Wall Chimney


A good route, and particularly good for a chimney. The route is cleaner than most chimneys, employs many techniques and protects reasonably well. Climb up it to the top of the wall.
To descend, walk left to the end of the wall and return back to the base.


From the approach, arriving below the Cruisemaster dihedral, go left out around a blunt corner and come into a left-facing Open-Book corner with some cracks a meter or so apart (Ralph and Bob's, 5.7) and continue a short while further past a large overhang and to this obvious chimney.


A standard rack from fingers to fist. Cracks and a fixed sling provide protection opportunity for this climb. Longer runners won't hurt!

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