|By ron amick|
From: poway, ca
Jan 10, 2012
This is entirely wrong. The problem described here is called "Long Tall Texan" by Greg Epperson. Rons Pharmacy starts on the ledge and climbs straight up the impossibly blank NW face of the boulder. I rated it V7 and i dont think it has been repeated.
I always thought that there might be just enough there, with the combination of friction and angle, for it to go. I had been on it dozens of times over the years and gotten nowhere.
Then one day it was like a harmonic convergence - i had new shoes that were just broken in, when they perform the very best, I had a wicked hone from a summer of climbing hard and was real strong, the conditions were ideal, cool and dry and the rock clean. I was warmed up and psyched, aided by a perfect pharmaceutical cocktail of asprin, beer, sativa and a natural organic compound.
I put my foot up on the very steep slab and rocked my weight up over it, and to my astonishment, for the first time ever, it held. I was so shocked i almost stalled, but i gingerly pressed out on that foot and slapped high with my hands, now improbably perched on absurdly holdless rock. I pulled down on my flat hands, inched my body up and tossed my other foot up, expecting to pitch off, but i kept creeping upward. I just kept working my hands and feet up like that and slowly, methodically crept up the face and damn if I didnt send it.
I did it one more time the next day with rick as my witness, and neither i nor anybody else that I know of has done it since. People routinely tell me that there is no problem on that face, that their friend who cranks everything said so, bla bla bla. Since nobody sees a line there, they have taken to calling gregs route "Rons Pharmacy".
This little problem is the best thing Ive ever done in 35 years of climbing, and it would be nice if people would get it right instead of thinking that they know better. I went to the boulders with a guy who was writing a guide and showed him the problem and he said "no, this is your route here" (long tall texan). I said "listen junior, i know what i climbed" and he says "no this is your route".
Whether that dumbass or anyone else believes it or not, its a fact.