This crag is unknown and waiting to be developed. At up to 150 feet tall it is the only sizable cliff between Camden and the White Mountains south of Bangor. The cliff stretches almost 1/4 mile in length, and a bit of everything. Just 5 min from BNAS and 1/2 hr from Portland, this area should be mid-coast Maine's most popular crag.
There are about a half-dozen cleaned routes with room for more. Read the note in the first comment for an ethics guide.
Take Route 24 South from Cooks Corner in Brunswick and turn right on Mountain Rd. and continue to the Harpswell Town Office. Parking is in the rear of the buildng. (Note: There used to be a blurb about parking in a vacant plot of land near the crag. Please park at the town hall.)
This climb is accessed via the "Cliff Trail" The Cliff Trail is a loop, and the quicker approach is to walk it counterclockwise. A map is posted at the NE corner of back parking lot, but start hiking by heading South past the recycling center. Follow this trail til you see a sign announcing "fairy house building zone" Explore the fairy village as you follow the trail. Shortly you will come to another sign warning of a 150 foot drop. Just past the sign you will emerge on to the cliff top. Rap here or follow the cliff top left to a gully that is negotiable to the bottom. The cliff stretches in both directions. Total approach time is about 10 minutes.
#1 - Easement for access via the private property described above is entirely UNKNOWN. I have asked around, to include persons at town hall, and the consensus is that you should access the crag via the trail behind the town hall - NOT THE PRIVATE LOT (vacant or not).
#2 - For the time being, discrete top-roping should be done. Take care to protect trees. The town hasn't granted official access to climbers, though they are aware that climbers use this resource.
#3 - This is a virgin cliff. There is a bunch of loose stuff. I've narrowly missed being hit a few times from sizable falling debris. If you set a top rope do not assume that the line is safe to climb. The rock looks granitic, but is not and is exfoliating all over.
#4 - Please refer to #2, but the placement of fixed anchors (bolts and pins), gardening, and trundling is not encouraged at this time.
I disagree about this being mid-coast Maine's most popular crag. I've climbed there several times and it just comes down to the fact that you can keep on tearing off layer after layer. If lots of time was put into cleaning it up it could be decent but for now it's very chossy. Just today I pulled off a crux hold and it almost landed on my belayers head. If you do climb here WEAR A HELMET.
I have climbed here quite a few times over the past years. Fun, but it is NOT a classic spot for midcoast. Although, it IS the only spot for midcoast. I climbed a half dozen routs there for years and then all of a sudden, someone put plaques under all routs with new names and over-the-top ratings. I was not happy. Who does that? Not one of them has been lead except for a beautiful 5.9 corner that actually has pretty good gear. Anyways, let's keep it quite and stop making outlandish claims out quality and height. It's only 80 ft. for crying out loud!
There are couple 5.10+ routs, a couple easier routs and a really nice 5.9 corner. Also, an overhanging, left arching crackish project on the far right side I have not been able finish.