Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Upper East Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Blind Trust T 
DH1? T,S 
Enlightenment, The S 
Long Live Rock T,S 
Mile High Comic Crack T 
Nighthawk  T 
Saturday Treat T 
Schizofrantic T,S 
Ticket, The S 
Young and the Rackless, The S 
Mountain Project continues to expand with Hiking Project, and we're giving away loads of gear from Arc'Teryx, Superfeet, & Zeal. Check it out!

Long Live Rock 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: [Alec Sharp]
Page Views: 781
Submitted By: Joe Collins on Jul 25, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Ross, at the first crux. More hard climbing above...

  • Seasonal Closures - Lifted MORE INFO >>>
  • Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    The gully area on East Blob has several nice mixed climbs. This is the route immediately right of The Ticket. Look high on the face for the 3 bolt finish and a short left facing dihedral about half way up towards the bolted section.

    Start as for the Ticket. Clip the first bolt on that route and then head right up a low angle gully/dihedral. A little ways up this corner, there is a nice looking finger/hand crack that goes straight up to a ledge 15 feet higher. According to the guide, this crack is where the route goes, but I continued up the easy corner, following the path of least resistance to gain the left-facing dihedral at mid-height. This left facing dihedral would be the trad crux of the route (10d). After pulling out of the dihedral, continue past 3 bolts (11a) to the anchor. At the last bolt one can either climb a hand crack several feet left of the anchor, or a contrived path just right of the bolt, which is probably the intended line.

    Careful when lowering. A 60m just barely gets you back to the ground.

    The route as described here is the "direct" version, and seems to have largely superceded the original variation. The original variation climbed a slanting crack right of the bolted section, to a leftward traverse into the line of the direct variation (10d) just after its crux. This is also good climbing and feels a bit harder than the 10d lower crux.

    Protection 

    Stoppers, single set of cams from green Alien to yellow Camalot. Bring a blue Camalot if you climb the original variation.


    Comments on Long Live Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    - none yet -
    Beyond the Guidebook:
    The Definitive Climbing Resource
    Inspiration & Motivation
    to Fuel Your Run
    Next Generation Mountain
    Bike Trail Maps
    Backcountry, Sidecountry
    & Secret Stashes
    Better Data. Better Tools.
    Better Hikes!