This climb starts as for Lady Pillar, see the description of that route and the atached photo. After maybe 10M there are 2 sets of cracks. FOllwo the one on the right to progress upwards into a right-facing corner on steep fingerlocks and laybacks at the finish instead of follwing the more pedestrian low angle flake of the 'lady pillar.' The reward is a better, loger, cleaner route.
A few of everything to get started, but with a lot of thin-fingers-to-tips gear to finish the route.I 60M rope might not quite get you down. Check your rope, or use a 70M for margin.
|Comments on Long Island Iced Ted
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 16, 2009
Another good route, although there is one section with a chockstone that didn't inspire confidence with gear. I jumped left and then back right to get the solid gear above the chockstone section. Upper part is fun off-fingers and liebacking. Will get you pumped if you don't move fast!