Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Palisade Head
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Feathery Tong 
A mind Forever Voyaging 
A Sinners Last Gift 
Aching Alms 
Arms Race 
Bluebells 
Bridges over Troubled Water 
Choice of a New Generation, The 
Christmas Tree Crack 
Danger Blanket 
Danger High Voltage 
Don't bring a knife to a gun fight a.k.a. "Gun Fight" 
Double Breasted Anchor 
Driving in Duluth 
Ecclesiastes 
Echoes 
Echoes Extension 
Ex Nihilo 
Flight School 
Fool's Progress, The 
Goliath's Finger Crack 
Great Bird Chimney, The 
Hidden Agenda 
Hidden Treasure 
I Could've Been a Contender 
Iron Maiden 
Jim's Crack 
KGB 
Laceration Jam 
Long Distance Commute 
Lord of the flies (free) AKA: Comrades in Slings (aid) 
Mack the Knife 
Mr. Lean 
Night Vision 
Old Men in Tight Pants 
Oz - (AKA The Road To Emerald City) 
Palisaid 
Phantom Corner 
Phantom Crack 
Poseidon Adventure 
Presents 
Pussyfoot 
Quetico Crack 
Rapprochement 
Scars and Tripes Forever 
Socket Wrench 
Soli Deo Gloria 
Squab 
Sunny and Sheer 
Superior Arete 
Superior Crack 
Swimsuits and Harnesses 
Swizzlestick Legs 
Urge to Mate 
Warrior's Last Dance On Earth 
Water Babies 
Wise Guys 
Withering Heights 
Yellow Feather 
Unsorted Routes:

Long Distance Commute 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Josh Columb/ Joe Nixon
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 486
Submitted By: josh columb on Jun 15, 2009
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Description 

This route takes the left hand of two cracks in the corner to the left of Iron Maiden up to a ledge about 1/2 way up, than switch to the right hand crack. A short section of face climbing(crux), protected by a fixed pin in the face on the right, is followed by 10 more ft of a finger crack that splits the large block at the top. This is a surprising find at Palisade Head. An unclimbed moderate hand crack. I couldn't find it in any guide books, but wouldn't be surprised if someone did it a long time ago and just forgot about it. It basically just needed to be scrubbed clean of lichen. A fun moderate safe warm up.


Location 

This route is on the south side of the route Iron Maiden (large awesome off with/squeeze chimney). An anchor is best set up on the large block on the south side of Iron Maiden. You can easily rapel to a large ledge about half way down the face. There is a fixed pin in the corner (don't know how old it is)but ample anchors abound (large block can be lassoed).


Protection 

The whole route can be safely led on trad gear 2" and smaller, mostly thin Hands to fingers. There is a fixed pin near the top between this route and Iron Maiden that can be clipped for extra security right at the second little crux



Comments on Long Distance Commute Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rick Kollath
Nov 25, 2009

This route was seen and climbed by Guy Evans around 2004-5. We were top roping Iron Maiden and Guy noticed (as I recall) a fixed pin in the corner on rappel. He climbed it, I don't think he named it, I'll try to find out. The rating sounds about right. If you guys (Josh and Joe) are the ones who put the pin there, then my bad, and at my age you never know.