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Long Canyon North

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Bare Knuckle Boxing 
Chalk is Cheap 
Chopper 
Dawn of an Error 
Dragon's Lair 
Gin and Techtonics 
Peccadillo 
Program Director 
Shit Eatin' Grin 

Long Canyon North 


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002
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BETA PHOTO: long canyon from the top

Description 

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.


Getting There 

The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.


9 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Canyon North:
Chopper   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c     Trad   
Gin and Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Chalk is Cheap   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Long Canyon North

Featured Route For Long Canyon North
Brian Milhaupt on pitch 2

Peccadillo 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- E4 5c  UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North
Park near the last campsite on the right. Shortly after this site there is a sign, "No camping beyond this point". Look up right for the most obvious approach where the talus breaks the lower cliffline. Once above the lower cliffline, hike left along the faint trail at the base of the rock for approximately 100 yards, looking for the first hand sized crack with flakes that jut left nearly 3/4 up the route. There is a plaque at the base. This is a desert classic, or should be. I felt like I...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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long canyon from the top
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