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Long Canyon North

Select Route:
Bare Knuckle Boxing T 
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Head Stack T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 

Long Canyon North  


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Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002
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Description 

This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There 

The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.4 miles from here

10 Total Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',5],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',3],['5.11',4],['5.12',3],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Long Canyon North:
Chopper   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Gin and Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Chalk is Cheap   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Classics in Long Canyon North

Featured Route For Long Canyon North
Tony Bubb follows 'Chopper (10c)' in Long Canyon. ...

Chopper 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North
Chopper is the left facing corner that the trail up to the cliff for Chalk is Cheap takes you to. It is 50 feet left of Chalk is Cheap and maybe two corner systems over.Quite sandy, could be done in two pitches, but better as one. Rap with two ropes....[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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long canyon from the top
BETA PHOTO: long canyon from the top

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