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Long Canyon North

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Number 11 in High on Moab guide book T 
Bare Knuckle Boxing T 
Chalk is Cheap T,S 
Chopper T 
Dark Passenger , The T 
Dawn of an Error T 
Dragon's Lair T 
Gin and Techtonics T 
Head Stack T 
Peccadillo T 
Program Director T 
Shit Eatin' Grin T 

Long Canyon North Rock Climbing 

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Page Views: 8,710
Administrators: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brian Milhaupt on May 12, 2002

41° | 25°

40° | 22°

38° | 20°

40° | 18°

42° | 20°

45° | 26°
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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This area contains many one, two, and three pitch routes of varying quality. Many excellent routes exist, but are fewer and farther between than the highly concentrated areas such as Maverick Buttress. This is the right side of the canyon, and is south facing so it receives plenty of sun. As seems to be the norm in Long canyon, there are names and ratings scribed on rocks at the base of many routes, climber petroglyphs.

Getting There 

The right side of Long Canyon beginning at Deadman's buttress, which is after the first campsite on the right, continuing until the switchbacks. All routes can easily be reached by parking at one of the many campsites, or on the shoulder of the road and hiking 15 strenuous minutes uphill.

Climbing Season

For the Long Canyon area.

Weather station 5.4 miles from here

12 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Long Canyon North

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Long Canyon North:
Chopper   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Program Director   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 190'   
Dragon's Lair   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   
Peccadillo   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad   
Gin and Techtonics   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 400'   
Dawn of an Error   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 115'   
Chalk is Cheap   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Long Canyon North

Featured Route For Long Canyon North
Rock Climbing Photo: 'Program Diector', as seen from the Base. Photo by...

Program Director 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  UT : Moab Area : ... : Long Canyon North
About .9 miles into Long canyon, on the right, you will see a striking series of crack and corner systems. There is a "loop" pull-off on the left side of the road. Hike slightly up-road and towards the rock on the right to intercept a trail syetem on the near side of a non-distinct approach ridge. I will probably find this, but sice the beginning of the trail is not obvious, you probably won't find it right away.A distinguishing feature to aim for is a HUGE, square, black boulder sitting a few h...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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Rock Climbing Photo: long canyon from the top
BETA PHOTO: long canyon from the top

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