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Long broken-up slab to the right of the main face at Mt. Yonah
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By Jsimpson
Feb 11, 2013
Does anyone know if there are access issues regarding climbing the easy slab to the right and below the main face at Mt. Yonah?

It looks like 150'-200' of barely 5th class climbing broken up by trees with a good looking clean face at the top.

Any information on the climbing in this section is much appreciated.

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By Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Feb 11, 2013
stone depot
are you talking about White Wall?

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By Frailer
From Georgia
Feb 11, 2013
-
No access issues. Not worth dragging any gear over there though.

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By Jsimpson
Feb 11, 2013
I know white wall well. What I'm referring to is to the right of white wall. Most of the rock looks too low angle to be much fun, but there is a top section that looks possibly steep enough to be interesting.

Thanks Daniel. I'm going with two novice climbers who I think will just enjoy walking up the slab. If any of it turns out to be decent I'll post pics.

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By Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Feb 11, 2013
stone depot
The lowers are perfect for novice climbers. Easy top rope set up and can be lead very easy. I think route 1 is like a 5.5 or 5.6 and well protected. If you run into something new let us know. Yonah is not my favorite place but is close to home

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By Brad Caldwell
From Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
Feb 12, 2013
Jon Powell wrote:
The lowers are perfect for novice climbers.

The Lowers is a terrible place to take a newb or novice...dirty broken rock up over bolted choss. Not really my idea of good rock or fun routes. There is so much more to climb at Yonah that is so much better. At least the Lowers babysits the riff raff that dont want to hike to the top and climb the better stuff!

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By Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Feb 12, 2013
stone depot
Then I must be missing out on all the good stuff. I thought most of the main face was multi pitch and trad. I personally would not want to put a novice on either

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By Davis13au
Feb 12, 2013
Only a few moves with an awkward top out.
The Lowers aren't horrible for a newb but the climbing (though easy) can be a little awkward. It is the easiest to walk to though. The colored routes and the numbered balance climb routes on the main face are much more straightforward for both a newbie and a teacher. Multi pitch trad is stretching it a bit, though there are routes where you can do it (Balance Climb 9). There's a lot of routes on the Main Face where you can easily lead up to the Army Cable or just follow it up from the ground and set up a top rope. I've seen a lot of first timers on the colored routes and the balance climbs.

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By Jon Powell
From LAWRENCEVILLE GEORGIA
Feb 12, 2013
stone depot
Davis13au wrote:
The Lowers aren't horrible for a newb but the climbing (though easy) can be a little awkward. It is the easiest to walk to though. The colored routes and the numbered balance climb routes on the main face are much more straightforward for both a newbie and a teacher. Multi pitch trad is stretching it a bit, though there are routes where you can do it (Balance Climb 9). There's a lot of routes on the Main Face where you can easily lead up to the Army Cable or just follow it up from the ground and set up a top rope. I've seen a lot of first timers on the colored routes and the balance climbs.

Is the balance climb sport or trad?

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By DarylS
From Atlanta
Feb 12, 2013
Mt. Adams
The Balance climb area is Trad. If you want to set up a top rope, you can climb up the cable to get to the anchors.

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By jeffinatlanta
From Smyrna, Ga.
Feb 14, 2013
If you're talking about the slab directly below the army orange route, it's worth toproping but it's not a gear placement treasure house.

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By Mark O'Neal
From Nicholson, GA
Feb 14, 2013
1st trad lead - Northern Pillar at the Gunks
To answer the original question, there are no access issues practically anywhere on Mt Yonah. Climb where you want to. That said I know which slabs you're talking about. I've thought about them but figured it wasn't worth the effort. There are several other easy slabs directly below the main face. I've also consider some easy looking slab just up and right from the Lowers. Crowder's topo's on coolclimbing.com can help you find the easy slabs if you want. Personally I prefer setting up a TR on one of the cable routes if I'm taking a total beginner.

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By Jsimpson
Feb 15, 2013
Thanks Mark,

That's a great site.

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